Bremer Bay: Orcas in the Bremer Canyon (Western Australia)

After over 4 hours of driving from Esperance - including a few roadworks and gravel roads - we finally arrive at Bremer Bay, a small sleepy fishing village on the southern coast of Western Australia. At first glance, there isn't much here: a few houses, a supermarket, and limited accommodations. But I came for a very specific reason - to see orcas. In the wild. And there's no better place to do that in the world than here, in the Bremer Canyon.

Is the detour worth it on a road trip from Perth or Esperance? I can definitely say: Yes. Absolutely!

Bremer Bay is quite isolated between Albany and Esperance on the rugged southern coast of Western Australia - right in the middle of nowhere. That's precisely what gives the place its charm. Those who make the journey will be rewarded with true nature, empty beaches, and one of the most spectacular wildlife experiences I've ever had.

From Esperance, it takes about 4-5 hours by car, depending on road conditions and construction - I traveled over gravel roads. From Albany, it's still about 2.5 hours to drive. A four-wheel drive vehicle isn't strictly necessary, but it's definitely advantageous in rainy conditions.

Bremer Bay is perfect as a stop on a road trip along the southern coast - for example on the route from Adelaide to Perth, which I did myself:

Here you can find my detailed southern coast road trip

The best time to observe orcas in Bremer Bay is between December and April. During these months, large groups of orcas, sperm whales, giant squid, and countless seabirds pass through the Bremer Canyon, about 60 km off the coast.

Especially impressive: Over 200 orcas gather here simultaneously - more than anywhere else in the world - to find food. This extraordinary concentration makes Bremer Bay one of the best places in the world for observing killer whales in the wild.

I was there myself in February - and can confirm: The chances of seeing these animals are extremely good.

Orcas aren't the only marine giants you can see here: Sperm whales, humpback whales, southern right whales, giant squids, and large schools of dolphins also roam the canyon. The spectacle is truly unique.

One slight downside: Although it's summer, it was pretty chilly during my visit. The wind really picks up here - it was only about 17 °C. So definitely pack a warmer jacket, especially for the boat tours. The temperatures can quickly mislead you about the rough sea.

The Bremer Canyon, about 60-70 km off the coast of Bremer Bay, is a deep underwater canyon system that drops down to 4,500 m into the ocean. I had the privilege of sitting with the captain and watching on his monitors as the sea floor suddenly fell steeply.

This geological structure creates a special natural phenomenon: cold, nutrient-rich water rises from the depths to the surface - a process known as 'upwelling.'

These rising nutrients bring the marine ecosystem to life: Phytoplankton forms, which in turn attracts krill, squid, and smaller fish - everything larger marine creatures need to survive.

And this is where the food chain kicks in: Sperm whales, dolphins, giant squids, seabirds - and especially orcas come to this region to hunt. Additionally, warm and cold ocean currents meet in the Bremer Canyon, further enhancing the biodiversity.

Especially impressive: The Bremer Canyon is considered the best place in the world to observe large groups of orcas in the wild. During the season from December to April, over 200 orcas have been regularly spotted here - making it the largest documented gathering of orcas in the world that occurs so reliably and consistently at one location.

The main reason I came to Bremer Bay: I urgently wanted to see orcas.

Early in the morning, the adventure named Bremer Bay Killer Whale Expeditions (Naturaliste Carters) begins. From the small harbor, we set off with a small group.

The journey to the Bremer Canyon takes about 1.5 hours - and then it happens: A spray on the horizon! But not every spray belongs to an orca. The 45° angle reveals that it's a sperm whale. Orcas blow vertically - 90° straight up.

A photo isn't worth it; you can hardly see a sperm whale. Beside it, a giant squid drifts - at least what's left of it.

It's fascinating how much you learn on such a tour. On board, there's also a photographer and a researcher, with whom we can even sit with the skipper at the helm and watch the monitors. Suddenly, everything happens very quickly: A straight spray - and shortly thereafter, we see the first orcas!

They come close to the boat, swimming underneath, right beside us - almost as if they want to greet us. Some jump like dolphins right in front of us out of the water. I'm so overwhelmed that I almost forget to use my camera. My zoom lens is suddenly much too close - a luxury problem!

We keep encountering small groups, sometimes two, sometimes four animals. Once, even a less than a month old orca calf swims alongside its mother. A moment I will never forget. The tour lasts instead of the planned 6 up to 8 hours because no one wants to go back to land - we are all so captivated by this experience.

Back in Bremer Bay, it is already past 5 PM. We have to make the drive back to Albany in the dark. And yes, a kangaroo actually hopped in front of my car - thankfully, everything ended well. Next time, I'll definitely stay one night longer.

Important tip: If you are prone to seasickness (or even just a bit sensitive), be sure to take some tablets beforehand. The sea conditions outside in the Bremer Canyon can get really rough - I've experienced it myself. The waves are high, and the tour is long. Some on board were clearly unwell (including my companion). If you're prepared, you can fully enjoy the experience. Otherwise, you'll suffer for 8 hours.

Even though the orcas are clearly the star: Bremer Bay has much more to offer - especially if you love nature and seek tranquility. Right after our arrival, we set off to explore the beaches and viewpoints recommended by our host.

My favorite: The Back Beach - wild, rugged, and deserted. But Short Beach or Native Dog Beach are also worth a short walk or a picnic with a sea view.

Despite being summer, it was quite cool and stormy during my visit, but that gives the area its special charm.

Anyone wanting even more nature shouldn't miss the nearby Fitzgerald River National Park - a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve with unique flora and fauna.

We stayed at the Bremer Bay Bed & Breakfast - a great choice if you prefer a cozy and family atmosphere. The view of the bay is simply breathtaking. I could look directly out the window at the water in the morning - a day couldn't start better.

Sure, there is internet, but: It's slow and only available in limited areas. In Bremer Bay, you should really put your phone aside and fully concentrate on nature. Honestly, I really enjoyed the digital detox.

Especially during the orca season (January to April), accommodations are limited - be sure to book early if you plan to come during this time!

Check out more photos on booking.com, for some reason I didn't take any photos inside. The accommodation was really great, and the hosts were wonderful. I'd stay here again anytime.

Culinarily, Bremer Bay is not a hotspot (like many places in Australia) - but what it offers is surprisingly good. We dined at the Bremer Bay Resort, the only bar and restaurant open in town - at least at the time of our visit. And I was pleasantly surprised: The food was tasty, the atmosphere relaxed, and the beer cold. What more could you want?

Tip: Depending on the season and day of the week, there are very limited options. So plan ahead, especially outside of peak season - or bring your own food.

After our orca adventure in Bremer Bay, we continued on to Albany (only to stay overnight) and then to Margaret River. The wine region is well worth a few days' stay.

If you're on the southern coast route from Adelaide to Perth, Albany is an ideal next overnight stop - or you can combine Bremer Bay with Esperance, where you can find the whitest beaches in Australia:

Road trip along the southern coast - Adelaide to Perth: My route & tips

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