Best Things to Do:
- 1. Caen - My Highlights in the City of William the Conqueror
- 2. History of Caen
- 3. Sights in Caen
- 4. Château de Caen
- 5. Half-Timbered Quarter Quartier du Vaugueux
- 6. Rue Froide
- 7. Saint-Pierre Church
- 8. Abbaye aux Dames - Abbey for Women
- 9. Abbaye aux Hommes - Abbey for Men
- 10. St-Étienne de Caen
- 11. Saint-Étienne-le-Vieux Church
- 12. Place St-Sauveur
- 13. More Noteworthy Places
- 14. Market in Caen
- 15. Jardin des Plantes
- 16. L'hôtel d'Escoville
- 17. Ouistreham Riva-Bella, THE beach resort for locals
- 18. More Information
- 19. Getting There
- 20. Exploring Caen on Foot
- 21. Museums for Bad Weather
Caen - My Highlights in the City of William the Conqueror
With around 110,000 inhabitants, Caen - the capital of the Calvados department and Lower Normandy - can be explored in a day. During World War II, the Norman city was fiercely contested, costing many civilians their lives. Fortunately, many religious buildings remained intact. Today, Caen is a lively university town with many small cafes and unique shops in narrow alleys.
After visiting the capital of Normandy, Rouen, a few days earlier, the cityscape in Caen is quite different: Instead of narrow lanes, we find wide streets. Most buildings are made of light sandstone, and there are numerous parks and even more green spaces. I really enjoy the charm of this small metropolis. France becomes more delightful with every spot I explore. What a great country!
I get lost in the alleys with sweet boutiques and small shops. Too bad it's a holiday and everything is closed.
In the west of Caen, you'll also find beautifully preserved half-timbered houses in narrow streets. Unfortunately, it's quite crowded here on a French holiday, so we can't enjoy it as much as we would like. It's really lovely and attracts many locals in addition to tourists.
While exploring, we keep an eye on the landmark of Caen: the castle of William the Conqueror. The Château de Caen was once one of the largest medieval fortifications in Europe. The grounds are open and, importantly, free to access.
We ideally park our car (camper van) in the courtyard after checking in at the campground in Ouistreham. Riding a bike would have been better. But it's raining on and off in the morning. This unpredictable weather prevents us from taking the 16 km long bike ride along the Vélofrancette bike trail by the canal.
Due to the holiday, we unfortunately miss the bus, which only departs every 2 hours (Tip for you: definitely check the bus schedules).
In this article, you will find my highlights with must-see places in Caen, which you can easily explore on foot in a day!
History of Caen
The city has a history spanning over 1000 years. Especially William the Conqueror made history when he constructed his castle as well as the two abbeys: Abbaye aux Dames (Abbey for Women) and Abbaye aux Hommes (Abbey for Men).
After the French crown conquered Normandy, Caen was besieged by the English in 1346 and 1417. They remained in the city until 1450, leaving a lasting mark on the city's appearance.
If you're interested in history, you should visit the Caen Memorial Museum. Le Mémorial de Caen documents the history of peace in the 20th century.
Sights in Caen
Château de Caen
Built by William the Conqueror, the castle in Caen overlooks the city. It was damaged in the war in 1944 and later restored. Inside, you'll find the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée de Normandie, the advisory hall, and the church of Saint-Georges.
You can access the courtyard through the Porte Saint-Pierre. This can be explored free of charge. However, there is an entrance fee for the buildings housing the museums.
Half-Timbered Quarter Quartier du Vaugueux
In this quarter, restaurants, bars, and cafes line up in crooked little half-timbered houses in narrow alleys. The quarter is located between the castle and the harbor. An interesting fact is that at the beginning of the 20th century, the grandparents of the famous Edith Piaf owned a cafe on the street Porte au Berger.
Rue Froide
In Rue Froide, you will find many small and very unique shops. This is, for me, the prettiest alley in the city. The medieval alley also features many impressive old buildings and courtyards. Take your time and stroll leisurely through.
Saint-Pierre Church
This parish church impresses upon leaving the castle. The church towers over the downtown buildings and captivates with its richly decorated facade. The construction began in the 12th century and was completed in the Renaissance style in the 16th century.
Abbaye aux Dames - Abbey for Women
The Abbey for Women at Place de la Reine Mathilde was built in the 10th century on the orders of Queen Mathilde. The convent is the counterpart to the Abbaye aux Hommes in western Caen.
The Trinity Church 'La Trinité' from the 11th century also houses Mathilde's tomb.
Abbaye aux Hommes - Abbey for Men
William the Conqueror had the Abbey for Men built in 1066 to reconcile with the Pope, who did not want to recognize his marriage to Mathilde (a distant cousin and princess of Flanders).
The impressive monastery was started in the Romanesque style and completed in the Gothic style in the 13th century. William the Conqueror is buried in the associated church, St-Étienne de Caen (see below).
St-Étienne de Caen
The church is located directly behind the Abbey for Men.
When you enter the interior, you'll be surprised at how beautifully white everything is. William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy and King of England, was buried in St-Étienne Abbey. You will find his tomb right in front of the altar.
Saint-Étienne-le-Vieux Church
Saint-Étienne-le-Vieux ("Old St Stephens Church") was once a Roman Catholic church. On site, we find a half-ruin.
We found very little information about the church, except that it was likely built in the 10th century. Don't confuse the church with that of the Abbey for Men; the "Vieux" or Old is an addition to indicate the old church.
Place St-Sauveur
The huge square is very lively. With the impressive statue of Louis XIV, he is immortalized here as a Roman Emperor. Surrounding it are beautiful city palaces in the styles of Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo. A market takes place here on Fridays, and the cafes around the square are quite busy.
More Noteworthy Places
Do you have more time to stay in Caen? Then you should also check out these places:
Market in Caen
Are you in Caen on a Saturday? Then you should visit the weekly market on Boulevard Leroy - Place Henri Buot, where predominantly Norman producers offer their food.
On Place Saint-Sauveur, the oldest square in the city, the weekly market takes place every Friday morning. You'll find many cafes nearby to relax. From here, it's just a stone's throw to the Abbey for Men and Rue Froide (the 'cold street'), which has many small shops.
Jardin des Plantes
We simply didn't have time for the botanical garden because we wanted to go to the sea. The garden was created by the medical professor Gaillard de la Ducquerie, who acquired the property in 1689 to plant rare plants. The park is quite popular and looks impressive in photos.
L'hôtel d'Escoville
This magnificent mansion, which also houses the tourist office, is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in Caen.
Ouistreham Riva-Bella, THE beach resort for locals
We understand why Caen is officially called Caen-la-mer when we check in at our campground in Ouistreham. The sea is just 10 minutes by car from the city. The coast of Calvados has Ouistreham Riva-Bella as THE beach resort for locals right at its doorstep.
More Information
Getting There
Caen is only 2 hours by car from Paris. It takes just 15 minutes by car to reach the coast in Ouistreham, where we are camping.
Exploring Caen on Foot
Here I (unfortunately only after the visit) discovered a great map online that shows you an ideal walking route through Caen. Ours happened to be almost identical:
Museums for Bad Weather
The Museum of Modern Art (Musée des Beaux-Arts de Caen) is housed inside the castle. It features works by Monet, Lebourg, and other famous French Impressionists. Surprisingly, the weather was too nice and warm, so we preferred to be outdoors.
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