Explorer's Way Australia: Route Darwin - Alice Springs - Adelaide

The Explorers Way travels from the north to the south of Australia. From Darwin, we drive through Litchfield and Kakadu National Parks. We pass through Nitmiluk and the Katherine Gorge to traverse the endless expanses of the Australian Outback, reaching Alice Springs. The Explorer's Way takes us further to Kings Canyon and the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Through Coober Pedy, we reach the Flinders Ranges, Clare Valley, Barossa Valley, and finally Adelaide.

The route also takes us from the hot tropics through the red center, eventually to a winter arrival. Temperatures ranging from 35 to -2 degrees are not uncommon on the drive through Australia.

The final leg of my three-month trip to Australia takes me to the Northern Territory and the Top End. We flew from Broome to tropical Darwin. After the road trip from Adelaide to Perth, we continued along the west coast from Perth to Broome, and then for 14 days, we traveled with a camper from Darwin through Australia's northernmost region: The Top End! Litchfield National Park, Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge), Kakadu National Park, and Arnhem Land. Then we return to Darwin.

After a short break, we begin a three-week journey on the Explorer's Way from Darwin through the Red Center (Alice Springs) back to the starting point in Adelaide. Alice Springs, Kings Canyon, Uluru, and Flinders Ranges feature on our route along the Explorer's Way. For the last weeks, we have rented a camper again.

Warning: Don't underestimate the vastness of Australia when planning your trip. If you have limited vacation and time, you should carefully consider which route to choose. Don't forget the additional costs of one-way rentals for cars or campers.

I hope this article helps you plan your route!

After we flew from Broome to Darwin (unfortunately the Gibb River Road was still closed), we spent two relaxing days exploring Darwin, receiving our camper van, and shopping in the supermarket for the upcoming days on the road in the Top End. Here are the places we visited that are all worth seeing.

Darwin is not only the capital of the Northern Territory, it is also one thing: tropical hot! The heat and humidity after the rainy season reminds me of Bali. No wonder, as Darwin is closer to Asia than any other major city in Australia. The climate here may not suit everyone.

Still, Darwin is somehow a perfect place to arrive in Australia. For my companion (brother Michi), it was ideal to get used to the climate and the time change.

We believe the city itself doesn't offer much. A stay of 1-2 days is more than sufficient. With its proximity to the Gibb River Road (which, unfortunately, was still closed for us) and the wonderful national parks Litchfield, Kakadu, and Nitmiluk, Darwin is an ideal starting point for a road trip in the Northern Territory. You could travel via the Gibb River Road to Broome, to Alice Springs and Uluru, or completely from north to south to Adelaide, our destination.

What very few know is that Darwin's harbor is twice the size of Sydney's harbor. Unfortunately, it lacks the amazing view of the opera house. Additionally, there are saltwater crocodiles and, depending on the season, poisonous jellyfish that make swimming in the ocean impossible.

However, the city has established two natural pools in the harbor area to provide residents with at least natural swimming areas.

Darwin is especially known for its markets. Particularly the Mindil Beach Sunset Market (Thursdays and Sundays from May) is worth a visit. Here, you can find great street food at fair prices. We were there on one of the first Thursdays in May; it was quite crowded, but we enjoyed it very much.

If you are not in Darwin on one of those days, the visit to Mindil Beach to watch the sunset is worthwhile.

Additionally, the well-known Injalak Art Center from Arnhem Land has a stand featuring wonderful Indigenous Australian art. A must-see. Luckily, I made it to the original in Arnhem Land (more on that later).

If there is a 'place to be,' it is Darwin's Waterfront. Here you'll find numerous shops, cafés, and restaurants. Along with the previously mentioned swimming pools, which have been created in the ocean with nets for protection against jellyfish and crocodiles.

In the evening, a visit to Stokes Hill Wharf is worthwhile. Here you will find a few restaurants catering to every taste and budget. The Asian stalls, in particular, offer great seafood for under 20 AUD. The portions are large, and the view in the evening towards the city or the sea is beautiful.

More tips will follow in detail.

Accommodation in Darwin: Both times we booked an apartment or room via Airbnb. Once in the CBD (city center) and once in Rapid Creek (recommended only with a car). Hotels were simply too expensive for us in Darwin.

Campervan rental: Apollo Campers. I had an excellent service experience here twice with very helpful employees.

Unfortunately, there is no Uber in Darwin. You always have to call a taxi via their phone number. There is an app for the taxi center, but it can only be downloaded with an Australian iTunes account (for iPhone users). Taxi number: 131008

Public buses run regularly at 3 AUD per ride in the city.

The residents of Darwin are lucky to have the most beautiful national parks almost at their doorstep. The nearby one is Litchfield National Park, just 90 km outside Darwin.

The 'little brother' of Kakadu National Park is very different because it offers many more opportunities for swimming, as the pools are crocodile-free. I spent two nights at the campsite of the Litchfield Tourist Park on two separate occasions. We spent an entire day at the free national park, visiting all open pools, waterfalls, and undertaking short hikes during May.

Check out my detailed report on Litchfield National Park with tips and highlights here.

I have often read that one should definitely visit Litchfield when they only have one day for the national parks around Darwin. That may be true, but I highly recommend also allocating time for Kakadu National Park (read on for my highlights in Kakadu NP).

Visiting the termite mounds 'Magnetic Termite Mounds' (compass termites) and the up to 6 m tall 'Cathedral Mounds'.

Wangi Falls - the beautiful waterfalls with the largest pool. Unfortunately, there was still a crocodile in the pool during our visits. Swimming prohibited.

Greenant Creek - short hike up to the pools, which you usually have to yourself.

Swimming at Buley Rockhole - many tourists but beautiful.

Hike from Buley Rockhole to Florence Falls (1.2 km). First to the lookout, then down to the pool for a cool off.

Tolmer Falls Lookout

All 4WD roads (e.g., Tjaynera Falls, The Lost City) were still closed during my two visits at the beginning and end of May. We would have loved to visit these. However, we wouldn't have been allowed to drive here with a 2WD camper.

Campsite in Litchfield Tourist Park: Camp spot with electricity for 38 AUD per night.

At the entrance of the park, information boards provide details about closed roads. Additionally, there is a relatively good overview map of the park (Tip: Either take a photo or download the Litchfield NP map before your trip).

Warning: Especially on weekends, the park can be very crowded as residents of Darwin love to visit Litchfield National Park. Therefore, it may be wise to book campsites in advance and visit the park early in the morning. The swimming pools are at their fullest during the midday heat. After 3 PM, the number of day visitors starts to decrease.

The most beautiful and varied national park in the Northern Territory for me is Kakadu National Park. Upon entering from Katherine, we initially thought it looked somewhat boring. Thanks to the dense vegetation and many trees, you can't see much at all.

However, the further you drive into the park, the more impressive and varied the landscape becomes. Instead of staying for three days, we stayed for six and still didn't see it all.

My highlights in Kakadu National Park that can be accessed without a tour (which were open after the rainy season):

Ubirr: Ancient rock paintings and a view from the Nadab Lookout, especially just before sunset, that takes your breath away. It was so beautiful that we visited twice.

Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Center: A beautifully crafted museum that tells the life of the Aboriginals through many quotes and stories of the residents.

Nourlangie (Burrunggui): Along a 1.5 km circular path, you will pass many rock paintings that are several thousand years old.

Nawurlandja Lookout: Offers an excellent view of Nourlangie.

Visit the Bowali Visitor Center to find out which roads and places are closed. You can also get information about road conditions and the tides for crossing into Arnhem Land. You will also receive perfect advice on activities for your planned time in the park. We got great tips and maps with lots of information here.

Fuel: Be sure to fill up in Katherine and Darwin. Just before the park entrance at Mary River Roadhouse, the gas pumps were out of order (coming from Katherine), and the Bark Hut Inn Roadhouse was closed. This one looked rather deserted (coming from Darwin). Inside the park, there are several opportunities to refuel: Cooinda Lodge Kakadu, Jabiru, and at Aurora Kakadu Resort.

Campsites in the park: There are numerous campsites in the park. We chose one with electricity. In Jabiru, we liked the campsite at Kakadu Lodge & Caravan Park (46 AUD per night) the best. The campsite at Cooinda Lodge Kakadu (41 AUD per night) was much louder, and the mosquitoes, due to its location in the wetlands, were overwhelming. The washrooms were not clean.

Accommodation in the park: Here we stayed for two nights at the Anbinik Kakadu Resort, operated by Aboriginals. Here you can find the most affordable accommodations if you are not traveling with a camper or RV. The cabins have an outdoor shower and a small terrace, along with cooking facilities nearby.

A Taste of Kakadu Festival: This interactive food festival takes place every May. We happened to be there during the festival, which lasts for 11 days. You can find information on the park's website.

Detailed article about Kakadu National Park

Arnhem Land covers nearly 100 km² of untouched nature and is one of the most remote areas of Australia.

"You have to go to Arnhem Land; only here can you feel the spirit." - all this was just words until my visit. Since then, my mind has been buzzing. I want to hear more stories, see more of the land, and learn more about the culture, rituals, and rock art.

Arnhem Land is managed by Aboriginal tribes (Bininj) who have lived here for over 60,000 years. Visitors need a permit to visit Arnhem Land. However, this only allows access to the settlement of Gunbalanya and the Injalak Art Center there. Independent travel is not possible.

Only as part of a day tour (e.g., Arnhemlander Cultural & Heritage Tour) can you reach Arnhem Land from Jabiru in Kakadu National Park. We did just that and were lucky enough to have a "quiet" day. With our guide Ryan, we were only 8 people. This gave us the chance to access places he does not show everyone or is allowed to. Sometimes the groups are too large and the others too unfit.

To reach the ancient rock paintings, one must climb a rock or two. It was worth it. I could sit in front of the rock paintings for hours, which are much clearer and larger in Arnhem Land. There are no barriers, allowing us to sit or lie on the ground (many paintings are painted on cave ceilings) while puzzling over what is depicted in the paintings.

Ryan could only explain some of the paintings to us. Only a few of the older Bininj could possibly interpret for us what is visible, if the history has been passed on.

The next highlight is visiting the Injalak Art Center in Gunbalanya. Having already seen artworks from Arnhem Land in Darwin and in Nitmiluk National Park, I did not expect much new. I was greatly mistaken. Many artists can be found in the art center, who are currently painting their pictures, making didgeridoos (more accurately Yidaki), or printing fabrics with their designs.

Even if the artists are shy - often due to a lack of English vocabulary - they are happy when you ask them about their artworks. Graham showed us his current project and explained the story behind it. Later, I purchased several of his wonderful artworks in the gallery. Of course, he insisted on posing with them.

For individual travelers (with a permit you are only allowed to visit the Injalak Art Gallery, nothing else), a rock art tour can be booked in advance through Injalak's website. Unfortunately, we had no more time for that. However, the many wonderful places we could visit during the day as part of the tour were already very overwhelming and impressive.

At the end of the tour, our guide Ryan even took us to a burial site just 20 meters from the road (alright, track would be a more appropriate term). Out of respect, we were not to take photos here. He did not want to share stories about the human bones lying around. He wasn't sure if the stories were accurate. No gossip. Okay. Still a strange feeling to be in such a place.

Then everything went quickly, and suddenly we were back at Cahils Crossing and then back in Jabiru, from where we had started in the morning.

Day tours to Arnhem Land: Book with Arnhemland 4WD Cultural & Heritage Tours for 273 AUD. Departure is in Jabiru. The tour is excellent and well worth it. The provider is 100% owned by Aborigines, and the groups are small. Website of Arnhemland Cultural & Heritage Tours.

Injalak Art Center in Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) is open Monday - Friday from 8 AM - 5 PM and Saturdays from 9 AM - 2 PM. Closed on Sundays and public holidays.

Rock Art Tour from Injalak Arts: The tour lasts about 3 hours and costs 110 AUD. Permits must be obtained from the Northern Land Council (see next point). See the tour on Injalak Arts' website.

Permits for Arnhem Land can be obtained from the Northern Land Council in Jabiru at the phone number: (08) 89383000 or online on their website.

Detailed article with tips for Arnhem Land

Nitmiluk National Park (formerly Katherine Gorge) belongs to the Jawoyn Aboriginal People. They manage both the Cicada Lodge and the adjoining campsite as well as various boat tours along the gorge in Katherine. The Katherine River has carved its way deep through sandstone cliffs here, forming this gorge.

The best way to explore the gorges is by kayak. Since we were in Nitmiluk National Park at the beginning or mid-May (I was there twice) for one night each, the river was still closed for kayaking. The rainy season was long, and a few saltwater crocodiles (Salties) were still in the river. Too bad.

I highly recommend the Cultural Cruise. The local Jawoyn explain a lot about their traditions, tools, and rock art on the rocks during the ride. You don't get this information and stories on the regular tours with the boat (led by whites).

Just a few minutes walk from the boat ramp is the lookout, which offers a great view of the gorge at sunrise or sunset. I was here at both visits in Nitmiluk for sunset. Beautiful!

For regular readers of my blog, it's no secret: I love helicopter flights! So I took a scenic flight here with Nitmiluk Heli Touring over all 13 gorges! It's well worth it and was once again an experience in itself!

More info on this website

Distance: 276 km

The drive from Nitmiluk National Park or from Katherine to Daly Waters is quite monotonous. Nevertheless, there is a place where everyone should make a stop: Bitter Springs in Elsey National Park. The thermal springs lie in the middle of a small rainforest. Suddenly there are palms on the left and right, and the landscape changes completely.

The Bitter Springs are less frequented than the nearby hot springs in Mataranka (mentioned in every travel guide at the Homestead).

The stop was worth it; the springs are pleasantly warm (around 30 - 34 degrees), the water is crystal clear, and thanks to the current, you can simply drift along the river until you reach the exit. Afterward, you feel refreshed and can continue the journey to Daly Waters.

In Daly Waters, we are pleasantly surprised: The pub is definitely worth a visit. We thought that all travel guides and other travelers were exaggerating. The pub itself is a collection of curiosities: bras, underwear, shoes, driver's licenses, police badges, hats, road signs, and who knows what else. Incredible!

That right here in the middle of nowhere, the campsite is full and we snagged the very last powered site is hard to believe. Honestly, we're not traveling during the peak season, and there had been plenty of spots free in the last two months. But everything is different here. Crazy and fascinating.

Hardly arrived, a live band starts playing, and the food order (half Barra - half steak, plus as much salad as you like) can only be placed at 7:30 PM - which is quite late by Australian standards. However, we are running late, and other slots are already fully booked.

A musician entertains all the guests with country music (mostly Johnny Cash, yay), and by 10 PM, it's quiet time! We and a lone wallaby are the only ones still awake after 11 PM. But the Milky Way is beautifully visible, so we take some photos. This is the first time in weeks (Perth?) that I am cold and have to wear a sweater.

Powered campsite (32 AUD) and unpowered campsites as well as small cabins can be rented. Reservations can only be made in advance as a larger group. First come, first serve. Around 5 PM, we were lucky. But it's Saturday; maybe it's quieter during the week. I don't know.

Distance: 522 km

After supposedly passing 3 km, one reaches the ghost town of Newcastle Waters and the famous Junction Hotel. This was constructed in 1932 from old windmills. However, it only comes after about an hour of driving. Since we would have had to turn off, we skip that detour and continue. The drive from Daly Waters to Wauchope presents even less variety than the previous day. Again, we see WWII memorials we don't stop for.

In between, we stretch our legs:

We originally planned to reach Tennant Creek today. The town is the only larger city with around 3000 inhabitants between Katherine and Alice Springs. However, when we arrived, it was only 2 PM, and we didn't feel like city life. So we continue to the Devil's Marbles.

For the night, we booked a camping spot with electricity for 30 AUD. The showers and toilets are clean, and the site is manageable and quiet.

The Devil's Marbles, or "Karlu Karlu," are a sacred site of the Aboriginals in the Outback (specifically, the tribes of Warumungu, Kaytetye, Anmatyerre, and Alyawarre). It is said that the Rainbow Snake laid its eggs here, the Devil's Marbles.

Karlu Karlu means "round object." According to tradition, the rocks are the eggs of the Rainbow Snake from the Dreamtime. Therefore, it is an important place for ceremonies and should be treated with respect. Signage asks visitors not to climb on the stones; however, very few abide by this, which is sad and disappointing as many visitors do not learn about the area and its significance.

I had imagined a few round stones. Upon our arrival, not just I, but my brother was strangely speechless. The area of spherical granite boulders is immense. Over 1000 stones are spread over a large area. The round rocks were shaped by weathering and erosion.

You can walk along a path around the rock formations. Please respect the wishes of the Aboriginals and do not climb on the stones as many others do.

Just about 10 km after setting off, we stop again. The reason? The Wycliffe Well Roadhouse & Holiday Park. Or also, the UFO Capital of Australia. Even on the Stuart Highway, funny signs point out that there was a runway for UFOs ahead.

On the way, there is still the Barrow Creek Hotel, which according to friends' information is covered with pinned money "pasted" to the walls. This sounds similar to Daly Waters Pub, so we do not stop here and continue to Aileron.

In Aileron, we see the 12 m tall Anmatjere Man and his life-sized family watching over the small town from afar. At the entrance, there is an Aboriginal Art Gallery you can visit during a stop as well.

In Alice Springs, we explore the pedestrian area with the Todd Mall Markets, a collection of Aboriginal Art Galleries, souvenir shops, and cafés.

Just in time for sunset, we drive to Anzac Hill, a war memorial, to watch the sunset and enjoy the view over the city. Unfortunately, the Kangaroo Sanctuary is closed and only offers tours at sunset starting the next day.

From here, a hot air balloon flight offers a unique experience which we did with Outback Ballooning (website). An update will come as soon as possible.

Trip report with tips for Alice Springs

For one night, we stayed at the centrally located Ibis Styles Alice Springs Oasis.

Dining: The Rock Bar. Good burgers, fast service, and easy to reach.

Tip for a tour: In the morning, watch the sunrise with a hot air balloon over the Outback. Provider: Outback Ballooning, 390 AUD. Wonderful!

Distance Alice Springs - Kings Canyon Resort (Campground): 472 km, approximately 5.5 - 6 hours of driving time.

Kings Canyon is an absolute highlight in the Red Center of Australia. Unfortunately, the Watarrka National Park, where this deep, wide, and brightly colored canyon is located, is often overlooked by many tourists. They only know one destination: Uluru. However, especially Australian tourists are aware of the beauty of this canyon.

Read more: Travel report for Kings Canyon with tips.

The rock layers are over 440 million years old. About 20 million years ago, a fine crack formed in the plateau, which grew wider and wider over time due to wind and rain.

Since we are traveling in the Australian winter, the Rim Walk (approximately 6 km) was definitely on our to-do list. In the summer, with over 40 degrees in the shade, this path is already closed early in the morning due to the risk of people collapsing during the steep ascent from the gorge to the edge of the gorge.

We walk around the canyon at a pleasant 18 degrees on the plateau. The wind is strong, providing a comfortable temperature for hiking. Without stress, taking many photo breaks, we walk the path and visit all lookouts along the way.

We pass by sacred sites of the Luritja Aboriginals, such as the waterhole in the Garden of Eden. Parts inside the gorge are also sacred and are off-limits for us. I respect this wish.

After our walk, we stay a little longer, as a ranger offers free talks about the national park at 3 PM. He discusses his collaboration with Aboriginals to protect nature, explains the flora and fauna, and answers all interested questions regarding this area. A great opportunity for anyone wanting to learn more about Watarrka National Park.

Accommodation: Kings Canyon Resort. Here, there are options ranging from cabins to campgrounds with and without electricity for every traveler. The good thing is that Kings Canyon Resort is only 10 km away from Kings Canyon. We stayed at the campsite. Unfortunately, I forgot to confirm my reservation request. Therefore, all powered campsites were taken, and we had to settle for a non-powered campsite. Prices: unpowered campsite: 20 AUD per person, powered campsite: 25 AUD per person.

Kings Canyon Rim Walk: This hike leads after a short ascent to 100 m along the edge of the gorge. It is approximately 8 km long with lookouts. We completed the hike in about 4 hours with many photo breaks (normally it takes about 2-2.5 hours).

Dingos: At Kings Canyon Resort, you have the opportunity to regularly see a pack of dingoes. For some, a joy; for others, a nuisance. The clever animals know perfectly well that many tourists leave their food and trash bags sitting around. "Found food" for the dingoes. Therefore, be sure to pack food away and do not feed them.

Distance from Kings Canyon Resort (Campground) to Uluru (Ayers Rock Resort Campground): approximately 305 km, 4 hours driving time

The supposed highlight for every traveler to Australia is Uluru. Friends have already raved about how impressive this rock is. We are, of course, referring to Uluru or Ayers Rock as it was once called.

Right after our arrival at the Ayers Rock Campground, we head to Uluru and undertake the base walk around the monolith.

Read all the tips for visiting Uluru here.

Visiting the Field of Light fulfills a dream. The light installation Field of Light has recently been extended through the end of 2020. Be sure to book tickets before your trip, as they are in high demand.

It was bitterly cold, but the lights under the clearly visible Milky Way were beautiful. We wandered through the sea of lights for about 1.5 hours before we had to take the shuttle bus back.

You can find all the tips for visiting the Field of Light in this article.

The next morning, we travel with SEIT Outback to see the sunrise at Kata Tjuta (formerly Olgas). Here too, we experience a fascinating play of colors. The rocks - made of conglomerate - rise up to 500 meters from the ground.

After a breakfast with warming coffee (it was only 2 degrees, and the night had dipped below 0 degrees), we hike the short but windy path into the Walpa Gorge. The path is uneven and leads between two of the rocks into a "dead-end". Walpa means wind in the language of the Anangu Aboriginals. The name couldn't be more fitting.

After a short break and a hot shower, which I really needed, we continue to the next highlight: a helicopter flight over Uluru and Kata Tjuta. As we will probably only be here once in our lives, we impulsively booked this flight at the Visitor Center the day before. For anyone who wants to see the "nothing" and the shapes of Uluru and Kata Tjuta from above in detail and up close: Be sure to seize the opportunity to take this scenic flight.

At sunset, we position ourselves with many other travelers along the national park road facing Uluru. The colors glow intensely again. Happy and satisfied, we drive back to the campsite. The impressions and experiences almost overwhelm me. The Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is truly something special.

By the way, the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is UNESCO-listed as both a World Heritage Site and a cultural site. The park covers an area of 1326 square kilometers.

Distance from Uluru (Ayers Rock Resort Campground) to Coober Pedy: 733 km, 8 hours driving time.

The drive to Coober Pedy was long. Most travelers make a stop for an overnight stay in Marla. We didn't feel like that and switched off driving hourly. With maximum temperatures of 18 degrees, little traffic, and regular stops, that was no problem.

There wasn't much to see on the way. The road was partly red, and the landscape changed from red to increasingly green as we approached South Australia. Along the road, we saw four wedge-tailed eagles. Unfortunately, too late to brake and take pictures. These majestic birds can grow up to one meter tall. Very impressive.

Coober Pedy is a small dusty town with only 1700 residents. Most live underground in living caves, known as "Dugouts" (Coober Pedy derives from the Aboriginal term kupa piti, which means "the hole of the white man").

This has the advantage that one can stay in a pleasantly warm environment during both the summer heat of over 40 degrees and the cold winter nights.

This little town is the world capital for opal deposits. About 70% come from here. Coober Pedy has also served as a filming location multiple times for Hollywood movies: Mad Max III, Pitch Black, or Red Planet were among those filmed in this desert-like setting.

We not only rented a Dug Out, but also visited an opal mine before continuing our journey south. Notable were the underground Serbian Orthodox Church, the "The Big Winch" lookout, and of course the spaceship left over from the Hutchinson Street from the Vin Diesel film "Pitch Black."

Accommodation: Dug Out B&B, a newly and cozily furnished accommodation with a breathtaking view of the landscape.

Opal Mine Tour: Tom's Working Opal Mine, adult ticket 15 AUD (self-guided). Guided tours are also available.

Not far from Adelaide lie the Flinders Ranges. The probably most famous landmark in South Australia is Wilpena Pound in the center of the Flinders Ranges. Despite the wintry temperatures, we spent the night at Wilpena Pound Resort instead of at the campsite. A good investment given the sub-zero temperatures, although even here nothing is insulated and we freeze at night.

Wilpena Pound looks like a giant amphitheater of rocks and mountains. The best view is from a scenic flight. Since we had already taken many helicopter flights before, we passed. If you have the time, money, and desire, other travelers swear by taking the expensive day scenic flight. It must be breathtaking (check out pictures on Google).

We preferred hiking in the beautiful forests up to Wangara Lookout. From here, we could somewhat imagine what the panorama of Wilpena Pound might look like from above. Thanks to the sun, the temperatures were pleasant, the hiking trail mostly in the shaded forest (perfect if you are traveling in summer).

If you're keen to discover kangaroos and wallabies in the wild, this is the right place. Right upon our arrival (it was unfortunately pitch dark), we had to drive extremely slowly, as over 30 kangaroos and wallabies were seated along the road. Wow! All travelers who claim they haven't seen any living kangaroos during their trip must go to South Australia. No shortage of living kangaroos and wallabies during my travels, whether in Kangaroo Island, Eyre Peninsula, Coober Pedy, or the Flinders Ranges.

The next day, we spotted even more animals. It was a true paradise! The trip was worth it, even though we still froze at night due to a lack of insulation and having only two blankets.

Accommodation: Campsite Wilpena Pound or the expensive Wilpena Pound Resort. Here too, the prices for a room are completely overpriced. In Australia, you pay for nature, not for luxury. Alternatively, Rawnsley Homestead seems to look excellent and is much cheaper. However, in warmer temperatures, my first choice would have been the campground at the resort.

Hiking: Various hiking trails start directly at Wilpena Pound Resort in the Flinders Ranges. A few meters away at the Visitor Center, one can rent mountain bikes. However, since biking is not allowed on the hiking trails, we opted out. All paths were perfectly marked. We hiked to

The Barossa Valley is THE wine region of Australia. About 60% of the country's production comes from here. We visited in winter, right after the grape harvest. Most vines are bare, their leaves fallen. Therefore, it is not very colorful right now. The roads are all lined with beautiful trees. It must look spectacular when the trees have leaves.

Outside the towns, we still find trees that have not lost their leaves:

Still, this region reminds us of our hometown Heilbronn. After all, there are many vineyards here as well. Some are just a few meters from my front door.

The best view can be found at Mengler Hill Lookout:

Of course, we tasted and bought wine. Purchasing wine in Australia isn't cheap. Bottles start at 18 AUD at the bottle shop and at the winery, prices begin from 25 AUD depending on quality.

We stayed in a small cottage that - to my delight - had a fireplace! For most, this isn't relevant, as people typically come here in summer or autumn for the grape harvest. However, winter nights can be very cold, and temperatures can also dip around zero degrees.

Accommodation: Tanunda Cottages in the center of Tanunda. There was also a campsite in the region, but with cold winter nights, we preferred these cozy little cottages for 2-4 people (2 bedrooms).

Best view of Barossa Valley: Menglers Hill Lookout.

Wine tastings: Unfortunately, we were too late for a wine tasting or to bike along the Riesling Trail. Therefore, we made a stop at Chateau Tanunda (beautiful photo opportunity), tasted wine, and bought some.

Allegedly the best pizza: 40s Café in Angaston. Honestly? No. The pizza was oily, somewhat American, and the varieties were really not to our taste. Still, it's a hit among locals and is heavily frequented.

More tips for Barossa Valley I found here at Adelaidenow.

After this, we returned to Adelaide. I've noted down what you can see and do in Adelaide: Adelaide Tips and Highlights.

For the Top End, I recommend planning at least three days in Kakadu National Park. For Darwin, 1-2 days are enough, especially to 'arrive' and acclimatize. Litchfield National Park can be seen in one day, and for Nitmiluk, one day is also sufficient. If you have little time for the trip, you can skip Nitmiluk National Park altogether.

Overall, I recommend planning at least 7 - 10 days. But it always depends on the travel time and personal preferences. I spent six days in Kakadu National Park and could have stayed longer, as I found this region (including Arnhem Land) to be something very special (more on that below).

I spent a total of three nights in Nitmiluk, and in Litchfield NP for two nights. I was in Darwin for a week in total as I took a short break from the road trip (I traveled in Australia for three months altogether).

Darwin - Litchfield National Park - Nitmiluk National Park - Kakadu National Park (including Arnhem Land) - Darwin.

Day 1: Arrival in Darwin

Day 2: Explore Darwin CBD

Day 3: Darwin, pick up camper van and shopping

Day 4: Darwin - Litchfield National Park

Day 5: Litchfield National Park -> See tips & highlights for Litchfield National Park

Day 6: Litchfield National Park - Nitmiluk National Park

Day 7: Nitmiluk National Park

Day 8: Nitmiluk National Park - Kakadu National Park

Days 9 - 14: Kakadu National Park -> See tips & highlights for Kakadu National Park

Day 15: Kakadu National Park - Darwin

Before I drive the route through the Red Center (Kings Canyon, Alice Springs, and Uluru), I plan for five rest days in Darwin. Not because the city is so nice, but because my brother (whom I am driving the last part with) had a bit of chaos with appointments and can't arrive any earlier.

For this section, we had very little time on our hands. The "Explorers Way," as this route is also called, can be traveled in 10 days with many highlights. We have a total of 18 days to drive from Darwin to Adelaide. I will update here which stops we made and where you might be able to save time in a shorter travel time while still traveling stress-free.

Day 16: Darwin - pick up camper van, shop, and drive to Litchfield National Park (Litchfield Tourist Park)

Day 17: Litchfield National Park -> See my tips & highlights for Litchfield National Park

Day 18: Litchfield National Park - Nitmiluk National Park

Day 19: Nitmiluk National Park - Daly Waters

Day 20: Daly Waters - Wauchope (near Devil's Marbles)

Day 21: Wauchope - Alice Springs -> See travel report for Alice Springs

Day 22: Alice Springs - Kings Canyon

Day 23: Kings Canyon -> See report for Kings Canyon with tips

Day 24: Kings Canyon - Uluru

Day 25: Uluru -> See complete report on Uluru and Kata Tjuta

Day 26: Uluru - Coober Pedy

Day 27: Coober Pedy - Wilpena Pound (Flinders Ranges)

Day 28: Flinders Ranges

Day 29: Wilpena Pound - Barossa Valley

Days 30 - 33: Adelaide -> See my tips and highlights for Adelaide

Day 34: Return flight to Germany

The question was quickly resolved for us: Campervan. Why? You are much more flexible, have beautiful campsites to choose from, and save a lot of money. Campsites with electricity cost about 41 - 46 AUD. A place to stay in the national park can sometimes cost over 300 AUD per night.

For the 'small' 15-day Top End road trip, I rented a small camper from Apollo in collaboration with Susi (Black Dots White Spots). Since we decided to book a camper only a week before, all 4WD campers were already gone. Luckily, we were able to get an Endeavour camper from Apollo at the last minute. There was even a 20% discount due to some promotion.

For the three weeks through the Outback, during which I am accompanied by my brother, we rented a larger camper van (Euro Tourer) well in advance. This gives us heating, as it can get to single-digit temperatures at night in the Outback and Red Center during our journey (May - June). Also, the roads are almost straight, so it's easier to drive around with a larger camper.

The best time to visit the Northern Territory is during the dry season between May and September. If you plan to visit multiple regions of Australia, you should carefully consider the order of your route. For example, I started in Adelaide (autumn beginning) in mid-March and traveled through Perth and Broome to Darwin. Thus, I arrived shortly after the end of the rainy season in Northern Territory (early May).

The north is tropical, hot, and the humidity is extremely high. Even in the dry season. At the beginning of May, it was almost unbearable. Just before sunset, the mosquitoes come in swarms. When I returned to Darwin after two weeks in national parks, it was much more bearable.

In Kakadu National Park, many roads (especially 4WD and the crossings to Arnhem Land) are closed or impassable in May. Shortly after our visit to Kakadu National Park, the roads to Jim Jim Falls, Twin Falls, and Gunlom Falls opened. I would have loved to visit all of these up close. However, during the dry season, there are no helicopter flights to the waterfalls.

In Litchfield National Park, access and the walk to the popular Wangi Falls were closed for maintenance at the beginning of May. Also, all 4WD roads were still closed.

In Nitmiluk National Park, kayaking was still unavailable in May, and swimming was also not allowed, as the river was still being checked for crocodiles and had not been released for swimming.

Temperature-wise, the travel time was perfect. Night temperatures dropped below 30 degrees, while daytime averages were around 33 degrees. Only briefly did the thermometer go over 36 degrees. All the waterfalls were beautiful because they had a significant amount of water flowing. During the dry season, most waterfalls are less impressive, either dried up or forming just a trickle.

Now you have the choice!

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