3 Weeks Japan Tour Individually: Route & Experiences

How about a trip to Japan? The Japanese culture seems foreign and so different to us. Yet everything is somehow familiar and structured. You absolutely have to experience this. Between skyscrapers and traditional temples, I explore the country on a longer journey of almost four weeks.

In hardly any other country do modernity and tradition meet so closely: I experience this contrast daily on our 3-week trip. Modern architecture, a well-functioning public transportation system, and of course the super-fast Shinkansen trains. In contrast, I explore ancient temples, see geishas flitting through the streets of Kyoto, visit Japanese gardens, and discover this wonderful Japanese cuisine.

Traveling around is really easy thanks to super-fast Shinkansen and local trains. With the Japan Rail Pass, it's also very relaxing. Additionally, we use buses, ferries, and of course the subway. We feast through markets and enjoy local Japanese specialties. We try everything and can't get enough of it.

We stay in hotels, private accommodations, and traditional ryokans. We experience the Japanese cherry blossom and see the peak of Mt. Fuji only during our departure. That's Japan. We love it from the very first moment!

I hope that with our tips, you can plan your individual trip to Japan completely stress-free:

Japan Trip Route for 3 Weeks

Due to the long journey, I recommend spending at least 3 weeks traveling in Japan. In 21 days, you can cover the really important highlights that you want to see on your first trip to the land of the rising sun. Of course, there is so much more to see.

In total, we spent 23 days in Japan, including travel time. After that, I felt somewhat 'overwhelmed' by the many impressions.

The Places I Visited

Tokyo (4 days) - Hakone (1 day) - Kawaguchiko (Fuji Lakes) - Kanazawa (2 days) - Kyoto (4 days) - Nara (1 day) - Osaka (2 days) - Himeji Castle (as a stopover) - Hiroshima (2 days) - Miyajima (day trip from Hiroshima) - Tokyo (1.5 days).

All the other places I wanted to see (including Takayama and the islands of Okinawa) I have postponed to the next trip.

Why Travel to Japan?

Shinkansen Bullet Train — The Shinkansen trains are also known as Bullet Trains due to their appearance. photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Kanazawa Castle Cherry Blossom Japan photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Japan is different and exciting! The trip is a great adventure: high-tech all the way. Starting from heated talking toilets to robots that talk to you or arcade halls in Akihabara.

With the Shinkansen high-speed trains ('Bullet Trains'), you get the most punctual trains in the world. Traveling around is easier nowhere than in the land of the rising sun.

There is the sacred Mt. Fuji, which is rarely seen in full splendor. In this region around the Fuji Lakes, the onsens dominate daily life: nothing is more relaxing than a bath in a hot spring. Caution: Admission to public onsens is only allowed if you have no tattoos.

Then there's the '5th Season' of Japan, Hanami, the cherry blossom. Months in advance, predictions are made about when the cherry blossoms will bloom. When the time comes, everyone goes crazy. Celebrating on blue plastic blankets in parks and snapping pictures endlessly. For us, a great spectacle!

Be fascinated by the discipline of the Japanese: always standing in line patiently, not pushing. This is also very well observed during rush hour on Tokyo's subway. At the famous Shibuya Crossing in Tokyo, more than 15,000 people cross the street simultaneously during each light cycle. It is the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world!

In addition, there are everywhere these artistically crafted lanterns, geishas dressed in silk kimonos flitting through the streets. Ancient temples and castles are almost in every region. In Kyoto alone, you can visit more than 1,600 temples!

Don't forget this beautiful landscape of volcanoes, pine forests, lakes, and the sea. The further south you go, the softer, greener, and rounder the hilltops become.

We are sure: Japan will also captivate you and totally blow your mind! We will return.

Tokyo

(東京 oder Tōkyō)

We begin our journey in the capital of Japan: Tokyo. 35 million people live here in the metropolitan region.

In the early afternoon, we land at Narita Airport outside the city, hence entering another world. In the first few days, we are hardly able to stop marveling. The cosmopolitan city of Tokyo has many faces. Around every corner, new impressions are hidden.

Great food, friendly people (except for Chinese tourists, who irritate us a lot due to being loud and inconsiderate) and exciting districts. Each of them has its own character.

In Shibuya, pop stars and advertisements flicker on gigantic screens. In Akihabara, we can see the latest technological advancements. In Ginza, everything is more luxurious, as it is a banking and business district with the most expensive shops.

We explore Tokyo for four full days. Piece by piece. At the end of the trip, we return once more.

climbed all viewpoints of the metropolis
wandered through the Imperial Palace Garden
visited many shrines and temples
battled through the subway during rush hour
saw robots 'in action'
watched Japanese people celebrating the cherry blossom in parks
tried Bullet Train sushi
dined and drank with locals in an Izakaya (pub)
visited a Maid Café
gambled in an arcade in Akihabara
conquered the ramen vending machines
crossed the Shibuya Crossing, the busiest crossing in the world with about 3,000 people simultaneously
survived the busiest train station in the world, Shinjuku, during rush hour (accidentally)
visited a fantastic antique flea market
explored Takeshita Dori, a completely crowded shopping street (and of course shopped)
treated ourselves to matcha ice cream
had crepes with cheesecake and strawberries
and saw so much more...

More Tips for Tokyo:

Recommended duration of stay: At least 3 days, better a week or longer.

Accommodation: 1st accommodation: Airbnb (Akasaka), later Park Hotel Tokyo (Minato)

As Tokyo is huge, we have written separate detailed articles here:

First time in Tokyo? Our tips for travel planning
You must see these attractions in Tokyo

Hakone

Barely out of Tokyo, we are suddenly hit by a bad weather front. As we board the Shinkansen to Hakone, we are still very excited: We want to catch a glimpse of the sacred Mt. Fuji in dreamlike landscapes.

The closer we get to Hakone, the darker the sky becomes. It gets cold. From the summery 26 degrees in Tokyo, we land at 10 degrees with an icy wind. We are lucky that the gondolas are still running to the active volcano Owakudai. The gondolas allow us to traverse over sulfur fields that bubble up from the depths of the volcano.

The highlight at the 'summit': eggs cooked in sulfur, whose shells turn black when boiled. The taste of the eggs remains perfectly normal. It is said that for each egg you eat, you live seven years longer. We'll see if that's true.

Afterwards, we head back down to Lake Ashi. Boats are sailing across the crater lake in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. Since Asians tend to enjoy unique experiences, these aren't regular boats but pirate ships! So we go from Togendai to the other shore at Hakone-Machi.

Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate here either, and instead of breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji, there is only fog.

We explore the villages (Moto-Hakone and Hakone-Machi) by foot, visit a replica of the last checkpoint before Tokyo (Hakone Sekisho), and a beautiful Torii shrine along with the Hakone-jinja temple.

The Torii shrine in the water is a popular photo motif, so be prepared for a queue. We visit the corresponding Hakone-jinja temple and walk back to Moto-Hakone.

The buses are completely packed. So we almost miss the last one back to our accommodation. Keep an eye on your time!

In the evening, the real highlight: a bath in a private onsen. Our accommodation, the Fuji-Hakone Guest House, has both an indoor and outdoor onsen where you can relax alone for 30 minutes. There's no better way to end the day. Simply amazing!

The next morning, we receive a private tour of the region from our host.

After that, we take buses to Kawaguchi-ko at one of the five Fuji Lakes. The next chance to catch a glimpse of this mountain...!?

More Tips for Hakone

Accommodation: Fuji Hakone Guest House with private onsen (a great alternative for all those with tattoos to public onsens)
Recommended duration of stay: 1 - 2 days (depending on weather)
Getting there: By Shinkansen and Japan Rail Pass: Tokaido Line to Odawara. Transfer to Hakone-Tozan Line to the Odinawa Station. From there, take the T Bus for about 50 minutes to the Fuji Hakone Guest House.
Buy Hakone Free Pass: This allows us to travel for free from the Odinawa Station, including the cable car, pirate boat, and bus.

Five Fuji Lakes (Kawaguchiko)

(河口湖)

The Fuji Five Lakes mainly offer one thing: the best views of Fuji. Unfortunately, not during our visit. We spend two nights in Kawaguchi-ko and find that this view proves to be a challenging endeavor. It is foggy, raining intermittently, and we do not feel the spring-like weather of Tokyo here. It has become cold.

The Five Fuji Lakes would probably only be half as popular if the northern volcano Mt. Fuji - Japan's highest mountain - did not dominate the skyline. With its towering height of 3,776.24 meters, it majestically overshadows the landscape.

From all the lakes, you have a great view of Mount Fuji. The view is said to be especially good in spring and autumn. Unfortunately, not during our stay. We are denied the sight until we sit on the bus to continue our journey. Then it is suddenly free of clouds. The snow-covered peak is incredibly beautiful. Unfortunately, the camera is packed away. The picture from my phone did not turn out very good.

By the way, Kawaguchi is the most popular of the Fuji Five Lakes.

You can get the most beautiful view of Fuji with the pagoda from the Chureit Pagoda. It is also featured on the 1000 Yen note.

More Info for Kawaguchi-ko:

Accommodation: Mt. Fuji Hostel SAMURISE
It is best to explore the region by bike. It is raining during our visit. No bike for us, at least this time.

Kanazawa

Nigiri Sushi with Fish — Nigiri in Kanazawa photo by viel-unterwegs.de

(金沢市)

The seaside city is not a 'must see' destination for everyone visiting Japan. However, as the only city besides Kyoto that was spared from the destruction of World War II, it belongs to the most beautiful places we've seen in Japan. The weather remains bad with much rain, thunderstorms, and a damp cold that causes us to seek refuge in a café multiple times.

Nevertheless, we wander through small alleys with original wooden houses.

In Kanazawa, we had the best sushi in Japan, visited an old geisha house, strolled through one of the most beautiful gardens in Japan, and visited the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.

At the market, we feasted on the delicacies of Kanazawa.

By the way, Kanazawa means 'Golden March' which is why there's ice cream covered with gold leaf, a magnet for tourists from all over the world. I also tried such ice cream while looking at Kanazawa Castle and the many cherry blossom trees. Beautiful!

More Info on Kanazawa:

Accommodation: The Share Hostels Kumu

Kyoto

(京都市 oder Kyōto)

Kyoto is mainly: COLORFUL! Everywhere, the red temples, pagodas, and torii shrines shine.

The ancient capital Kyoto is a must-see on any trip to Japan. Four days are far too few. We feel wonderful here. Unfortunately, the weather isn't always good. We explore the traditional district of Gion (the geisha district) and gaze wide-eyed as geishas flit through the streets. Simply fascinating.

We originally wanted to explore Kyoto by bike but decided against it due to the crowds of tourists.

We spontaneously buy two tickets for a geisha show in the evening.

We particularly enjoy the Philosopher's Path. This path can be leisurely walked along, allowing you to enjoy nature a bit. At the end, there's a lot of delicious food to taste.

We woke up early in the morning to escape the tourist crowds and also visited temples and sites further outside of Kyoto (which is not always easy during cherry blossom season).

What else did we do in Kyoto? The list is endless, here are a few highlights:

Ate Shabu Shabu, Kaiseki, and Kobe beef
Visited the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha and hiked through the thousands of red torii gates to the top
Visited the Golden Temple Kinkaku-ji
Explored the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (early in the morning)
Visited Daigo-ji Temple, thus escaping the crowds
Visited Kiyomizu-dera Temple (the main building is currently under restoration and completely covered)
Spontaneously attended a geisha show
Visited Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple with thousands of stone Buddhas
Visited Nishiki Market in Kyoto and tasted even more food
Took a ride on the Romantic Train
Saw even more temples, shrines & torii gates

More Tips for Kyoto:

Accommodation: Airbnb
Food at Nishiki Market
Shabu Shabu: At Moritaya in the main train station in Kyoto with a view of the city and Kyoto Tower
Kaiseki dining at Kamikura in Kyoto
Eating Kobe beef: Premium Pound Sanjo Kiyamachi

Nara

(奈良市)

Many visit Nara only as a short stopover on the way from Kyoto to Osaka. We do things differently and spend the night here in a ryokan. A good decision, because here we experience the most beautiful evening of our trip.

After a long day of sightseeing, we land in a traditional izakaya. We understand not a word that is spoken, order 'on a whim' and are invited to drink sake by a Japanese musician. Communication is a mixture of broken English and sign language. Delightful!

This place was so authentic that you will find it too if you search on pages 4-5 of TripAdvisor. We don't want to share this tip. There are no photos from that evening either. We only received a postcard as a souvenir.

Nara is very cozy and we like it a lot!

The temples have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The deer made the place even more famous. Asians go completely wild here. We, however, are less impressed. Anyone who feeds animals knows how aggressive they can get when they smell food in a backpack and don't get any.

Just before our departure, there was an article about this on Spiegel Online. It stated how dangerous it is to visit the deer. Total nonsense. If you feed them, you have to expect this...

Places You Must Visit in Nara

Todaiji Temple in Nara Park. It is known as the largest wooden building in the world. Inside is the Nara Daibutsu, Japan's largest Buddha statue.

Nara Park is just a 5-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station. During cherry blossom season, you will find over 1,600 cherry trees in the park, which paired with the free-roaming deer make for a popular photo motif. After a short walk through the woods to the beautiful Kasuga Taisha Shrine with its many stone lanterns lining the way.

At the Nara Prefectural Government Office, you can go all the way to the top for a free view of Nara.

A special tourist magnet is the world's fastest mochi maker! Be sure to stop by Nakatanidō. You can't miss it as there are always plenty of spectators standing in front.

More Tips for Nara:

Accommodation: Guest House Iki
Recommended duration of stay: 1 day
Try Nakatanidō mochi
Food: Somewhere in a Japanese pub (Izakaya) that we want to keep to ourselves.

Osaka

(大阪市)

We had hardly any expectations for Osaka. Surprisingly, we enjoyed it so much that we would have liked to stay longer.

We visited the Umeda Sky Building and enjoyed the view from above. We visited the Hep Five Shopping Mall and rode the red Ferris wheel there. You also get panoramic views of Osaka here - unfortunately, the windows are not very clean and quite scratched.

We checked out Osaka Castle and, of course, explored the shops in Tenjinbashi Shopping Street. We couldn't miss the Shinsaibashisuji Shopping Street, the oldest shopping street.

In America Mura, we found Osaka's hipster and artist district with great cafés, shops, and brightly dressed people. The best part: in a department store, there is a shop where you can play over 100 pinball machines. We had to take a little break here.

Dotonbori, an entertainment district and a highlight for foodies, we visited every day. Here you can find everything your heart desires. Especially brilliant: the shops have giant animals affixed outside, so you can see what food they offer, even without mastering the Japanese language.

As foodies, we couldn't bypass a highlight in Osaka: at Rikuro Ojisan no Mise, they serve the famous fluffy cheesecake. It's incredible how long the line is. Of course, we lined up and bought one for ourselves (and then devoured it).

Other highlights in Osaka are the Tsutenkaku Tower, the Shinsekai entertainment district, Kuromon Ichiba Market, and Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shotengai, where you can find all sorts of kitchen utensils imaginable. But: You can buy great knives here and have your name or Japanese characters hand engraved on them. The perfect souvenir from Japan.

See tips on attractions for Osaka

More Tips for Osaka:

Accommodation: Airbnb
Recommended length of stay: 2 days
Try the fluffy cheesecake at Rikuro Ojisan no Mise
Food: Yakiniku & Horumon (Japanese BBQ), Tako Tamago (mini octopus with quail egg at Kuromon Market) and make your own mochi at Kuromon Market!

Himeji Castle

(姫路城, Himeji-jō)

Himeji Castle is perfectly located on the way from Kyoto or Osaka to Hiroshima. Therefore, like almost all tourists, we made a stopover there. The great thing is that there are lockers in Himeji Station where you can lock away your luggage.

The walk to the castle can be done on foot (takes about 20 minutes). However, there is also a bus for those who do not feel like walking.

Himeji Castle has been freshly renovated. Actually, everything is completely new. But it is beautiful. It is orderly all the way to the top. It can be quite crowded, but the views of the castle and also from the top are worthwhile. Just a shame that drinks are not allowed inside (or you probably shouldn't get caught). Even chewing gum is forbidden.

Hiroshima

Atomic Bomb Dome Hiroshima photo by viel-unterwegs.de

(広島市)

We experience Japan's tumultuous past firsthand in Hiroshima. We visit the Peace Memorial Park with the memorial of the atomic bombing, the Peace Museum, and Hiroshima Castle.

Here we also eat the local specialty: Okonomiyaki. Every day. Delicious! The best ones are at Okonomi-mura, where over 25 stands serve variations of this local specialty across three floors. Just choose a floor, find an empty seat, and order your Okonomiyaki.

What else should you know about Hiroshima? The citizens of the city are crazy about baseball. We would have loved to be live at a stadium. The otherwise so quiet Japanese go wild for baseball in Hiroshima. While eating Okonomiyaki, everyone was glued to the TV, following the game. Really interesting.

Read more: See all tips and highlights in Hiroshima here

Recommended duration of stay: 3 nights with a day trip to Miyajima.
Hotel: Hiroshima Washington Hotel, right around the corner from Okonomi-mura.

Miyajima

Miyajima Ropeway Mount Misen photo by viel-unterwegs.de

(宮島)

Ideal for a day trip from Hiroshima by train is the island of Miyajima.

Upon arrival at the harbor, you'll first find the main shopping street Omotesandō, full of souvenir shops and restaurants. A major highlight for tourists: the world's largest shakushi (rice spoon).

We pleasantly explored the beautiful island for a day. You could also stay overnight here, but unfortunately, we didn't have the time.

See more detailed tips for the island of Miyajima here

More highlights:

Itsukushima-jinja Shrine
Momiji-dani-koen Park (bridge)
Take the Miyajima Ropeway up to Mt. Misen, then walk back down into the valley. Enjoy the amazing view from above. It feels like we're in the Caribbean. So beautiful!
Daisho-in Temple
Senjō-kaku & Pagoda
Daigan-ji
In the shopping street, try the grilled hand-sized oysters (local delicacy). It was too fishy for me. I prefer the smaller oysters.
Getting there from Hiroshima: With Japan Rail Pass from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi (about 30 minutes), then take the ferry to Miyajima in 10 minutes. The ferry is free with the JR Pass.

Tokyo and Return Trip

In 4 hours, we travel quickly from Hiroshima to Tokyo thanks to the Shinkansen. We still have a complete day left to explore more places in Tokyo. We saved the fish market for our last day.

But getting up at 3 AM for the fish auction feels too early for us. We go around 7 AM to the now relocated 'old' fish market Tsukiji and explore the area. We are disappointed and horrified to see Chinese tourists wandering around with rolling suitcases.

After that, we head to Hamarikyū Gardens for a tea house overlooking skyscrapers. Here, tradition and modernity are very close together. The weather is summery, so we lay on the grass and relax.

Our final exploration is Shimokitazawa, just a short distance from Shibuya and Shinjuku. The area is relaxed, and we enjoy the small cafés, bars, and shops with vintage clothing, and stroll through the streets.

We soak in the last moments and views at the Sky Deck, Tokyo City View Observation Deck (Roppongi Hills). As the first evening in Tokyo was so amazing, we head back to that same bar to end the trip.

Sayonara Japan, I'm sure I will be back soon!

All tips for Tokyo will be detailed soon!

More Travel Tips for Japan:

Cost of the Japan Trip
Planning your Japan trip - all Japan travel tips
Buy the Japan Rail Pass: Our tips and experiences for train travel
Best travel time for Japan
Cherry blossom in Japan: overrated or worth it?
Recommended Japan travel guides
Japanese food - Typical specialties you have to try
Typically Japanese: Curious and funny things

Travel Guides with Tips for Places in Japan:

Tokyo
Kyoto (to follow)
Hiroshima
Osaka
Miyajima Island
Nara

Best Travel Time

The best travel time is from May to mid-September. The months from December to March are ideal for skiing.

If you want to see the cherry blossoms in Japan, read our experience report here.
Best travel time for Japan (by region)

Popular Destinations We Didn't Have Time For

Okinawa
Japanese Alps (bad weather and snow, which is why we skipped this highlight)
Naoshima: The island is famous for its numerous modern art museums, architecture, and sculptures. Especially those by the famous architect Tadao Ando.
Tohoku Region
Shirakawago
Kiso Valley
Sapporo in winter

Frequently Asked Questions About Japan

What Should I Definitely See in Japan?

1. The cities of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka
2. Catching glimpses of Mt. Fuji in Hakone
3. Stay overnight in a traditional ryokan
4. Visit a (private) onsen.
5. Let yourself be carried away in Tokyo
6. Visit the many temples in Kyoto
7. Visit Miyajima Island
8. Experience the cherry blossoms (and tell me if you like it)
9. Experience the Shinkansen trains and travel quickly, punctually & comfortably through Japan.
10. Visit the markets and enjoy the various local specialties.

Packing List for Japan: What Should I Pack?

Depending on the season: Layered clothing. Dress in layers. Otherwise, comfortable shoes and clothes for 7-10 days. You can wash clothes everywhere locally.

How Long Should We Travel to Japan?

The flight is long. Therefore, I recommend planning at least 3 weeks for this fascinating country. If you have less time, limit yourself to the region around Tokyo.

How Much Money Should We Budget for a Trip to Japan?

If you book early? Then you can secure inexpensive accommodations and save a lot of money. We booked too late for the cherry blossom season. Plan about 3,000 euros per person for 3 weeks. We weren't stingy on site and tried everything, especially food. Here you can find my list of what a trip to Japan costs.

Conclusion of the Trip

Japan is definitely worth a trip. Since the very first day in Japan, I have been fascinated by this diverse country. I love the cities just as much as the nature. The delicious food, with typical dishes that vary from region to region.

I am fascinated by the well-functioning public transportation system with the amazing Shinkansen trains, along with local trains and buses. Even though I often could not read a word, it was simply easy to travel individually.

The public transportation network is excellent and a dream for us Germans. I dream every time I sit in a delayed train back home.

The Japanese are very hospitable, albeit often shy. They immediately helped as soon as they saw us standing somewhere with a city map. Really great!

I keep dreaming about this trip and I know one thing: I want to see even more of the culture and the country! さよなら (Sayonara - goodbye. I am now learning Japanese).

Do You Have More Tips for Japan? What Are Your Highlights and Must-See Places for a Trip to Japan?

Leave us a comment at the end of the article! I look forward to reading your opinion.

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Adventure Japan: Highlights & Most Beautiful Places of the Trip

Japan Tour: Highlights and the Most Beautiful Places from Our First Visit