Bayous and Blues: Sights in Louisiana

Join us on a road trip to Louisiana, one of the Southern states, that will surely captivate you as well. We spent 12 days in New Orleans, Baton Rouge, Lafayette, the swamps, and the plantations.

Dive into the history of New Orleans jazz, learn more about the historic Southern plantations and the history of slavery, discover Cajun culture in Lafayette, and experience the unparalleled bayous and swamp landscapes. Not to mention the delicious food, ranging from Creole to Cajun cuisine with African roots. Louisiana is also known for its joie de vivre, as there is always a festival taking place somewhere, along with the world-renowned Mardi Gras.

If you want to truly get to know the USA, you absolutely must visit Louisiana. Let our highlights inspire you to plan your own road trip.

In this article, you will find our highlights for 10 to 14 days in Louisiana. Overall, we were on this first trip to the Southern states for 4 weeks, as we undertook a road trip from Chicago to New Orleans.

New Orleans is not the capital, but it is the most famous and largest city in Louisiana. Louisiana is the perfect starting point for your road trip through this fascinating state. The multicultural city on the Mississippi River impresses with its unique blend of Creole, French, Native American, and African American culture, history, and lively atmosphere. Here are some highlights that you can experience in this vibrant city:

A definite highlight for all culinary and hot sauce fans is the Tabasco Factory on Avery Island, about a 20-minute drive west of New Iberia.

It's hard to believe, but yes: This is where the entire global supply of this delicious hot sauce is produced! And they take great pride in it: The Tabasco brand is honored here, everything is impeccably maintained and lovingly arranged.

After touring the factory and the museum - which can be done both alone or with a tour - we sample all varieties at the in-house Tabasco tasting. There are even two different Tabasco ice cream flavors. Crazy!

You can also buy the 'Tabasco Family Reserve' bottle here; a variety that has aged in barrels for over eight years before being bottled and can only be purchased here on Avery Island.

There was also time for lunch to extensively test the various sauces in action. Juicy Po'Boys, excellent Gumbo, and a rather puzzling hot dog.

Afterward, the adjoining Jungle Gardens invite you to take a self-guided road safari. Admission is included in the museum price, and we are thrilled: On the approximately five-kilometer auto route, there's plenty of nature; flora and fauna from all climate zones of the world seem to thrive here effortlessly.

On our visit, the water levels are so low due to the continuing lack of rain and heat that we only see a few alligators; usually, there are many more to spot.

What many don't know: Baton Rouge is the capital, not New Orleans. The city also has a rich history with some crazy anecdotes about its history and landmarks.

Highlights here include the Old Louisiana State Capitol with its Gothic architecture. As one of the historically most valuable buildings in the entire state, the 'Old State Capitol' is bursting with history.

Architecturally alone, a visit with a tour would be worthwhile, but also content-wise, many aspects of Louisiana's diverse history are told here through changing exhibitions and programs (including a really entertaining 4D film about the house).

Impressive is the glass dome, adorned with countless colored glasses, flooding the room with a sea of colors. During the tour, you will also visit the chapel where the light filters through the colorful windows onto the floor on sunny days.

Admission is free, only the highly recommended 4D presentation costs a mere $2.

As the most important figure in the political history, Huebert Pierce 'Huey' Long must be mentioned, who maneuvered the fortunes of the people from Baton Rouge for many years as governor.

Not only did he exploit the gray areas of legislation, but he also did a lot for the population and infrastructure of the area.

To commemorate himself, he built the largest Capitol building in the United States in 1932: In front of the 137-meter-high 'New State Capitol' (which offers a lovely view of Baton Rouge and its surroundings) stands a statue of the eccentric populist, who fell victim to an assassination in this very monument.

The finest truffle fries (along with seductive garlic mayonnaise) of the trip were eaten at 'The Overpass Merchant', along with fresh, juicy Boudin Balls.

There is also something light here: Tuna tartare is a delicious change from burgers and fried foods, even though the latter are also done nicely and deliciously here.

Together with Red Stick Adventures, we walked through the historically rich and politically very active city.

Especially interesting is the oldest neighborhood in Baton Rouge: 'Spanish Town'. This neighborhood is primarily known for its annual Mardi Gras parade - the largest in Baton Rouge and home to a multitude of people from many different social backgrounds.

As the 'neighborhood mascot,' the pink flamingo is seen everywhere, symbolizing the saying "Bad taste is better than no taste at all" as a kind of mantra for the neighborhood.

The story behind it: At the beginning of Mardi Gras season, about two dozen large pink flamingos made of plywood are placed in the LSU lakes to announce that the annual parade is coming soon. It is a tradition to 'adopt' one of these flamingos - in short: to steal it - and then proudly display it in one's front yard.

Just 30 minutes from downtown New Orleans lies the 'Destrehan Plantation'. Here you can experience firsthand how people - plantation owners and their slaves - lived. The estate, founded in 1787 by Jean-Baptiste d'Estrehan de Beaupré, is the oldest documented plantation in the lower Mississippi Valley.

The main building is characterized by French and Spanish colonial architecture. Leading us through the grounds is Dianne Honore Destrehan, known to many as 'Gumbo Marie,' a direct descendant of Jean-Baptiste Estrehan, who interacted with her great-grandmother Genevieve Bienville - a slave.

We get goosebumps as she tells us about the inhumane things that happened here; especially at a table that measures slave prices based on age, gender, and skills, we have to swallow hard.

Here - as in most other plantations in the area - sugarcane was mainly grown and harvested. This work is particularly exhausting, as sugarcane is harvested year-round. Harvest follows harvest follows harvest...

During the tour, we are always surrounded by the huge, sometimes hundred-year-old oaks along with the characteristic Spanish moss; a unique backdrop you should not miss.

The most famous and visually impressive plantation in the region is the 'Oak Alley Plantation'.

Famous for its 250-meter long entrance lined with 28 mighty oaks, this place offers impressive settings from every angle. The countless free-standing oaks enhance the mystical impression, making us feel like we've traveled back in time.

Oak Alley was also once a sugar plantation, built and operated by enslaved men, women, and children. The 'Slavery Exhibit', which is located in six authentically reconstructed slave cabins, addresses all facets of slave life on the plantation. The exhibit focuses on a few specific individuals who were held on the plantation and tells their stories of life and suffering. This gives a much more direct connection to the narratives and daily life in a time when people were still divided into classes. Impressive, yet poignant.

At the optical center of the estate stands the 'Big House'; this is what the large manor houses of a plantation were called. Prestige, power, and luxury emanate from every pore of its furnishings, showing the wealth that the plantation owners enjoyed. In contrast to the adjacent slave cabins (most of which were then out of sight, much further back in the field), we become aware of how cruelly paradoxical it all was.

A tour is worthwhile, especially regarding the history of slavery, which - as we quickly find out - varies from plantation to plantation but finds its proper focus here.

We recommend arriving in the late afternoon to watch the sunset. Afterwards, an overnight stay in one of the cozy and well-kept guest houses is a must: We were fascinated by the early morning when the oaks and their Spanish moss awoke surreal in the morning mist. After breakfast, a detailed tour, and then onward - perfect!

The Houmas House Estate lies between Baton Rouge and New Orleans and aims to make life on a sugar plantation in the 19th century palpable to its visitors.

Of all three plantations we visited, this one has professionalized its history the best in our eyes: It features two museums, three restaurants, multiple bars, habitable cottages, large spaces for weddings and other banquets, and numerous staff who can conveniently take us from A to B in golf carts upon request.

The mansion has been restored to its antebellum era and reflects the opulence and wealth of this sugar cane farm in the 1880s. Kitsch and trinkets are found everywhere, almost every wood decoration is adorned with carvings.

The tour through the 'Big House' takes us through its 250-year history and shows the architectural development. The women guiding us through the rooms wear historical clothing.

We find it somewhat disconcerting that slavery isn't even mentioned in passing; it seems every plantation deals with its past in its own way. We find it very unsettling to completely omit this part of the turbulent history.

The grounds, where we take two bungalows for our last night of the trip, are huge and well maintained. Small paths wind through the ever-growing nature, a small pond with fat ducks and black (!) swans, and the incredibly many ancient oaks with Spanish moss invite exploration.

The bar is small but extremely high, with the walls mixing the finest spirits with stuffed, dressed animal heads; the 'Turtle Bar' has a bizarre ambiance.

The drinks, however, are worth lingering here a bit. Especially the Sazerac, a local cocktail reminiscent of an Old Fashioned, tastes particularly smooth here.

Classic Southern cuisine between gumbo, burgers, and shrimp Po'Boys; you can't go wrong here, especially the gumbo - prepared with okra - is delicious.

The wine list reads very European, and the staff makes an effort to match the grape varieties with the chosen dishes. We don't experience this too often on our trip!

Check out here former plantations in Louisiana that you can visit

The small, well-kept town of St. Francisville has approximately 1,700 residents and offers plenty of opportunities for nature enthusiasts.

The 'Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge' is highly recommended, inviting for hours of hiking.

It preserves some of the last naturally functioning bottomland hardwood forests in the region, a unique landscape of ridges and depressions, cypress-tupelo swamps, meandering outlets, and flood channels shaped by the Mighty Mississippi.

In connection with annual flooding, this provides a highly productive habitat for various fish and wildlife, including fisheries, migratory songbirds, wintering waterfowl, Louisiana black bears, and other resident wildlife.

The wildlife refuge is also home to an ancient swamp cypress, one of the largest trees of any kind east of the Sierra Nevada. The tree is estimated to be about 1,500 years old. With its nearly 30 meters in height and a circumference of a whopping 17 meters, you feel quite tiny next to it. Impressive!

If you want to fortify yourself before or after the natural spectacle, we highly recommend lunch or dinner at 'The Saint' restaurant of the upscale 'St. Francisville Inn'.

Juicy chicken burgers, crispy Boudin balls, perfectly fried shrimp with pineapple, and seductively smoky goat cheese with local honey - you can't go wrong here.

Lafayette lies in the heart of Louisiana's Cajun & Creole Country. Its history dates back to the 18th century when the Canadian Acadians were expelled and settled in Louisiana. Today the term 'Acadian' is equated with 'Cajun'.

Lafayette is known as the epicenter of Cajun cuisine; in 2013, it was even declared the 'Best Food City' in the USA. It is also home to Zydeco music, which we will get to later.

Until then, we stroll through downtown Lafayette on Jefferson Street, sip hipster coffee at 'Reve Coffee Roasters', eat excellent tapas at 'Central Pizza & Bar', and browse through numerous book, clothing, and vinyl record stores.

One of the best dinners we enjoy is at 'Spoonbill'. In a former gas station, modernized Southern food is served that still carries the hearty culinary identity of the South.

We indulge in poke bowls, BBQ shrimp, incredibly good pesto bread, and while we sip on cold IPA, the world outside comes crashing down for a moment - but hey, this area could certainly use the rain!

This weekend, an important game (well, what game isn't important?) of the LSU Tigers from Louisiana State University is taking place. Everywhere we see purple and gold, to the effect that there are virtually no available rooms left in the city.

Therefore, we are staying at the somewhat southeastern 'Courtyard by Marriott Lafayette South.' It's not a bad hotel, but the long trek to downtown and - once again - the non-turnoffable and continuously blowing air conditioning at night leaves something to be desired.

If possible, try to find hotels early and check the reviews online; if someone is complaining about the air conditioning, it's likely not turn-offable.

While it continues to rain outside, we retreat into museums; surprisingly light and modern is the 'Acadania Center for Arts' in southern downtown.

Various local and international artists merge here into a sometimes tangible, sometimes abstract whole. Impressive as well, how the high, bright rooms give ample breathing space to the exhibits, so no one feels overwhelmed by the abundance of pieces on display. Admission is free.

The sun appears, and we want to move for a change: This is particularly good at Lake Martin, east of Lafayette.

We hike completely undisturbed around the beautiful lake lined with cypress, oak, and willow trees for a good 8.5 kilometers and even manage to spot a hefty alligator near the shore.

Towards the end (or at the beginning, if you walk clockwise), there's a rather muddy section. If you don't want to clean your shoes afterward, be sure to pack hiking or spare shoes.

Showing a bit more priciness but also incredibly stylish and successfully executed is the relatively new 'Vestal' in the heart of Lafayette.

The open kitchen is dominated by equally open flames. This can only mean one thing: They probably serve excellent steaks. We start again with oysters, this time even getting a selection; we choose the Canadian varieties and are amazed by their freshness, brininess, and melt-in-your-mouth quality.

The ceviche is a little bland, but the quality of the steaks impresses us greatly. If the garlic sauce would taste more like garlic, we would be here every week!

The wine selection is also nice, offering some interesting natural wines from California. If you're willing to open your wallet just a bit wider, but reward yourself with cosmopolitan dishes and ambiance, 'Vestal' is the place for you.

Be sure to reserve a spot if you want to go to 'The French Press.' This breakfast spot - although 'breakfast' in America can also mean 'burger with fries and Bloody Mary' - is immensely popular. We endure the roughly 40-minute wait and stroll through sunny Lafayette again.

Finally seated, we indulge in a hefty dose of American carbohydrate and sugar ecstasy: A savory 'Croque Madame' seems to resonate with our taste buds.

Things get trickier with the 'Chicken & Waffles.' A sweet waffle - topped with cheddar (!) - meets three fist-sized pieces of fried chicken (!!). Add a generous ladle of maple syrup (!!!) and hot sauce (!!!!) and voila, this mess I just had to try: sweet, sour, salty, spicy - it seems like every adjective starting with 'S' gets used. Not quite my thing, but definitely one thing: crazy!

In the small neighboring town of 'Breaux Bridge' from Lafayette lies 'Buck and Johnny's'. Here they cook Italian classics and blend them with robust Cajun influences. On this Saturday morning, although we didn't get to enjoy this fusion, we witnessed a local ritual: the 'Zydeco Breakfast'! Already before 8 AM, people are lining up here to get a spot.

Zydeco is a special music style played in Louisiana, influenced by blues, rhythm and blues, music of the Louisiana Creoles, and the Native Americans of Louisiana. A rather complex genre characterized by accordion and waltz rhythms, and thus extremely cheerful and danceable music.

Then things quickly get lively: the tables shine in the finest yellow as 'Bottomless' - that is, all-you-can-drink - Mimosas are served. These devilish concoctions of champagne and orange juice not only hit the bloodstream swiftly, but evidently also get into our legs.

With the first beat, people start dancing as if there's no tomorrow. Couples from all over the world unite to the thunderous loud music. An unexpected surprise!

'Middendorf's Restaurant': A Piece of Bavaria in Louisiana

'Middendorf's Restaurant' is quite an odd place: When we arrived, Bavarian flags were waving while a German man in lederhosen played folk songs on his accordion. The restaurant is, however, known for its wafer-thin catfish - What's going on there?

The German, Horst Pfeifer, and his American wife Karen took over the restaurant directly on Lake Maurepas in 2007 and have since shown keen business sense. This includes the 'traditional' Oktoberfest, openly celebrated here - along with daily changing German specialties like pork knuckle and roast.

However, we dove into the wafer-thin catfish pieces that crackled delicately. On a nice day, you can also breathe easy on the veranda overlooking the lake before moving on.

Cajun Encounters Swamp Tours: Alligators, Turtles, Herons & Raccoons

This tour provider northeast of Lake Pontchartrain takes you about 90 minutes through the rustic Honey Island Swamps, where you will see many alligators and learn about the anatomy, surroundings, nature, and plant species of the Louisiana swamps.

If you are based in New Orleans, Cajun Encounters offers a pickup service to the boat dock.

We found the extremely crowded boats and the somewhat insistent request for positive Google reviews a bit unsettling - but if that doesn't bother you (and if you've never seen an alligator in the wild), you should certainly go for this little adventure!

Directly on Lake Pontchartrain - and opposite the grand city of New Orleans - lies Mandeville. About 12,500 people live here by the riverside, everything is well-groomed and neatly trimmed. We feel a little transported to California, with a cosmopolitan breeze - and everyone seems to have a dog. Here, right by the shore, we also experienced the most magnificent sunrises!

Staying at 'De la Bleau Bed & Breakfast'

Just as neatly trimmed as the town is the 'De la Bleau B&B' in the heart of the city.

Various small apartments in or under the main house ensure there's no noisy hotel feeling - and the breakfast with bacon, scrambled eggs, and pancakes is worth spending one or two nights here to explore the area!

Dinner at the beautiful 'Palmettos on the Bayou'

About a 20-minute drive from Mandeville is the 'Palmettos on the Bayou' restaurant in Slidell. Here we had the best dinner setting of the entire trip!

The restaurant sits directly on a body of water, and as if you're in the middle of the woods, the wooden, modern establishment snugly fits among trees and small huts.

Charming - and the food is convincing: We finally enjoy oysters in their raw glory, ate juicy BBQ shrimp, and had the best gumbo of the entire trip.

Bike tour through St. Tammany Parish

'St. Tammany Parish,' this is the area where Mandeville serves as our central point for the region.

Just a few minutes north lies the small town of Covington. 'Brooks Bike Shop' has built a solid reputation with its three outlets and offers rental bikes for exploring the area.

It feels good to be physically active among all the oysters and other fried delights. We spend a few hours pedaling through the area, along the Tammany Trace to the small town of Abita Springs.

Here you shouldn't miss the 'Abita Mystery House.' This local attraction is run by the unmistakable John Peble. He was inspired by the quirky 'Tinkertown Museum' in New Mexico and presents objects made from thousands of throwaway items and other memorabilia in his quirky art cabinet.

Sometimes absurd, sometimes extremely creative, you can unexpectedly spend an hour (!) in the many rooms with countless buttons and switches.

John Bullard, the director of the New Orleans Museum of Art, even went so far as to say that the Abita Mystery House is the "most fascinating and provocative museum in Louisiana." The museum shop, along with the extravagant owner at the cash register, adds to the uniqueness of this special place.

Lunch can then be had halfway at the 'Abita Brew House'. We particularly enjoyed the sour fried artichokes and the Boudin egg rolls.

Abita itself is known for its extensive selection of house-brewed beers, which enjoy an excellent reputation throughout the area. Here - at the source, so to speak - you can sample up to six different beers in small glasses.

Sunset romance on the Tchefuncte River

The Tchefuncte River (pronounced 'Chuh-funk-tah') near the city of Madisonville has been a popular spot for flora, fauna, and wildlife amidst the picturesque waterways for generations.

Young captain Mike Jones, who chose a life on the water early on from 'Louisiana Tours and Adventures', took us on his excursion boat for a few hours of sunset through the beautiful waterways and shared insights about birds - like the Kingfisher - and the area's history with us.

Here in the area, the film 'Where the Crawdads Sing' was also shot. And with a bit of luck, the sunset will lay just as hyper-romantically over your waterbed!

Dinner at 'The Anchor'

Right around the corner from Mike's dock, 'The Anchor' invites you to a Southern dinner overlooking the Tchefuncte River.

Crispy hot shrimp tacos, cool margaritas, and an overall well-filled, very noisy and bustling locale with live music should activate the last cells of fatigue in your body after a long day. Reservation recommended!

Above the restaurant lies the slightly finer 'Tchefuncte's Restaurant.' French haute cuisine meets Southern fish, along with dry-aged steaks and pasta. If you need a break from hearty soul food, you'll find yourself well taken care of here.

The land of endless possibilities is indeed easy to travel individually. For many, a dream destination, primarily for city and road trips.

To ensure your planning and preparation for the big USA adventure doesn't take too much time, we've written down the most important tips for traveling in the USA for you. You can find everything in detail in the article with the best travel tips for the USA.

For entry into the USA, you need the following: A biometric passport that is valid for at least 6 months and has two free pages. As an EU citizen, you do not need a proper visa. Instead, you need an electronic travel authorization (ESTA) as part of the 'Visa Waiver' program.

It's best to apply for ESTA several weeks before your trip online by filling in the ESTA application. ESTA costs a fee of $21 and is valid for 2 years. After that, you'll need to reapply for ESTA. You will receive an email before expiration.

All information about the application and a step-by-step guide for the German form can be found in this article:

ESTA form for the USA - step-by-step guide

The ESTA form must be filled out by all travelers. Whether you are traveling privately or for business. However, if your trip lasts longer than 90 days, you must apply for a visa at the embassy.

If you search for the ESTA visa website online, you will come across paid service providers who want to 'take the work off your hands.' These agencies cost significantly more. Only apply for ESTA through this official website here.

Currently, the best free travel credit cards are the Debit Card from DKB Bank, GenialCard (Hanseatic Bank), and the Mastercard Gold from TF Bank. With a setup of at least 2 of these cards, you can almost always withdraw cash for free at ATMs and pay on-site without incurring foreign transaction fees on local currencies! -> Here you can find all tips based on my experience about the best travel credit cards in comparison.

The ideal months for a visit to Louisiana are spring and fall, from April to June and October to November. The weather is often pleasant, and humidity is usually not as high as in the summer months. From June to the end of October, it can be unbearably humid, and it is hurricane season. We had temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees from the end of October to the beginning of November, with only one day in November being particularly humid.

If you plan to visit New Orleans during Mardi Gras, you need to secure accommodation very early. Hotels are more expensive, and the alcohol level (especially the odors that come with it) rises.

As of now, no airline flies directly from Germany to New Orleans, the ideal starting point for a road trip in Louisiana. Therefore, it is worthwhile to compare prices and book early. I always check Skyscanner first, and then check directly with the airlines to see if flights might be cheaper.

Louis Armstrong International Airport opened shortly before COVID and has short distances, but one major shortcoming: if you need to pick up or drop off your rental car, you should plan at least 30 minutes extra. Because it takes about 20 minutes by shuttle bus from the return of the rental car to the terminal.

Louis Armstrong International Airport in New Orleans is only 25 minutes from downtown. Since we were traveling with our rental car, I don't have any information for shuttle buses from the city center to the airport (or vice versa).

We are often asked how far in advance we book flights. Generally, we tend to book quite last minute when tickets become scarce and prices rise. For these flights, we watched prices daily for 3 weeks. We booked our flights 2 months before departure.

Absolutely. You won't get far here without a rental car. Everything you want to explore outside of New Orleans (including cities like Lafayette or Baton Rouge) is better explored with your own car. We were traveling longer (4 weeks from Chicago to New Orleans) and had to pay a one-way rental fee of $300 (around $430 with taxes). We booked our rental car and some hotels along the trip through CANUSA.

If you're only traveling in Louisiana, it may be worth renting the car only after your stay in New Orleans. Valet parking in hotels is expensive (starting at $35 per night), and you really won't need to drive around the city.

LOOKING FOR A RENTAL CAR? For finding a rental car, we recommend the platform check24 or Billiger Mietwagen. I also compare prices with Sunny Cars. -> Here are tips for booking a rental car. -> Don't have a credit card? Then read here how you can get a rental car without a credit card.

For our road trip, we explored the official tourism websites of Louisiana Travel. Additionally, we purchased the following travel guides for trip planning as books:

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