Palomino in Colombia

"You must go to Palomino" is the tip given to me by Colombian tourists as I continue my journey through Colombia. So here I sit in Cartagena, trying to choose between two accommodations in Palomino.

What I don't realize at this moment is that it's a choice between relaxation or "backpacker tourists" (this is not meant disparagingly, but I've never found joy in constant partying, alcohol, and celebrations while traveling). However, no one writes about the fact that along the mile of budget accommodations, there is hardly a spot on the beach that is free. Especially not on weekends or during the Colombian summer.

The pictures show the difference:

Hence, I am glad to have chosen the right accommodation. I decided on the Hukumeizi Hotel over Casa Chapolin with the option to surf. So that you know what to expect before your trip to Palomino, here is the whole story with tips for your stay.

Palomino is a small village on the eastern Caribbean coast in the department of La Guajira, which borders Venezuela to the north. Only an hour by bus from Tayrona National Park and two hours from Santa Marta.

This sleepy place is no longer a hidden gem. Still, it is so underdeveloped that there are hardly any restaurants on the beach where guests can get meals. Most accommodations offer some sort of all-inclusive with breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Along the main road, there are a few restaurants, fruit stands, and options to buy food in stores. Along the "backpacker mile", there are also food stalls and restaurants. But I didn't want to survive on bad pizza.

In Palomino, you can do one thing above all: relax in a hammock under palm trees on the beach and forget about time. During the day, at noon, a large flock of pelicans flies by, which you can watch from the hammock:

There are also surf schools, but I didn't find the conditions good; plus, 30 - 50 beginners were clustered in one spot in the water. Too much.

We rented at the Hukumeizi directly on the beach for four nights to reflect on the three weeks of Colombia (-> travel report) and regain a sense of adventure for the last days of the trip. Because I am tired from the many impressions of the last weeks.

At first glance, Palomino looks just as unremarkable as all the other villages along the road since we left Santa Marta. A gas station, snack stands, houses, many motorcycle taxi drivers, and above all, dust. However, our goal is not the main road but the sea. And that's exactly where we want to go. Palomino is said to hide one of the most beautiful beaches in Colombia. That's why we are here.

Since the bus stops on the main road, we shoulder our backpacks, and a quick glance at my phone shows: 3.1 km to the accommodation. With temperatures above 30°C and the sun shining, walking is not an option.

Next to me stands a motorcycle taxi driver, who knows exactly what we want: to ride along. When asked about our backpacks, he waves tiredly and says 'No Problem' as he loads the big backpack onto the tank and handlebars. As soon as I hop on, the ride continues over the pothole-riddled road. Here, too, they only know full throttle and hard braking. Nevertheless, the driver skillfully steers his scooter around the potholes to the Hukumeizi Hotel at the beach.

The first impression of the sprawling property and the numerous palm trees providing shade is great. There's also a pool, which I typically don't care much for when the sea is nearby, but here it's quite useful.

The flags on the beach are always red. This indicates that there is a strong current, and depending on the tide, one might prefer not to go into the water or to do so with caution. Cooling off is fine, but swimming properly is a no-no. Yet, hardly anyone adheres to this guideline.

We check in quickly, toss our luggage into the shelf of our spacious cabin, and head straight to the beach. Here, you can choose from lounge chairs, tables, and hammocks.

The beach looks like something out of a picture book and is wonderfully natural. The palms almost reach the water, just as my ideal beach should look. Occasionally, coconuts thud to the ground (never walk or lie under a palm tree!) or a large flock of pelicans majestically flies by overhead. The wind is pleasant, and the temperatures are 30°C.

Sometimes we take breaks, walking either left to the mouth of the Rio Palomino (too crowded and a narrower beach section) or right to the mouth of the Rio San Salvador, where I think the prettier beach section of Palomino continues. It's so relaxing that I devour several books while lying in a hammock.

I only need to interrupt to cool off in the sea, stroll along the beach, or enjoy one of the delicious meals at our accommodation! This little timeout here feels great; time and days pass without knowing what date it actually is.

Before you click the 'Book' button, you should know one thing about Palomino: The beach is not as paradisiacal everywhere as the pictures claim. I, too, was misled before my trip and, by chance, chose the right accommodation.

There are numerous accommodations here with - as it is written in Lonely Planet - 'backpacker flair'. This 'flair' means: crowded beaches, plenty of alcohol, drugs, and loud music. If you enjoy that, follow the Carretera 6 from the main road and look for a budget hostel along it or the beach section you come across.

East of Hotel Aite, more expensive accommodations are located. These are quiet and situated on the broad sandy beach. This is where I found my relaxation. If you check early, for example, at booking.com for accommodation (not on weekends, as many locals are present), you can snag great deals. We 'missed' ours by a day and had to pay almost double for nights. Our fault, but still within our budget.

I recommend our Hukumeizi Hotel. The cabins are very spacious with two bedrooms and two double beds each. The walls consist only of wooden planks, over which white linen sheets are stretched as walls. From the bed, I can hear the thunderous waves of the Caribbean Sea. It's paradise. Although I am not a person who can lie on the beach for a week, this little timeout is just right for me.

Even though the manager is not very friendly, the cook is amazing and prepares us three very delicious meals (usually with seafood and fish) each day.

Alternatively, I recommend the accommodations El Matuy (right next door) or Hotel Aite (also next door). I generally would check which accommodation at booking.com offers prices with a discount.

If you don't feel like lounging on the beach, you can float in a tire down the Rio Palomino from the Sierra Nevada to the mouth at the sea. The fun lasts 2-3 hours, depending on how much water is in the river.

Since Palomino is directly by the Sierra Nevada National Park and also home to the highest mountains in Colombia, numerous hikes are offered everywhere. Just ask at your accommodation.

Many Colombians also recommend visiting the Quebrada Valencia waterfalls. These are located towards Tayrona National Park and are reachable by bus. Just tell the driver where you want to get off. For the hike, you should plan at least 2 - 3 hours.

If you don't go to Tayrona National Park anymore, you could take a day trip instead. Again, you take the bus towards Tayrona/Santa Marta and get off at the entrance El Zaíno.

Or you can do it like we did: Just relax in a hammock on the beach and listen to the sound of the ocean.

You can easily reach Palomino by bus, which departs from the Mercado in Santa Marta. The buses run regularly every 20 minutes. Had we not passed by the departure point a day before, we probably wouldn't have found it so easily. Even our taxi driver dropped us off directly at the bus company. All good, as one bus collected all tourists at the Mercado.

The trip from Santa Marta takes about 2 hours and cost 9,000 COP during my visit (January 2017). The prices for bus tickets have increased by 1,000 - 2,000 COP since 2016. The buses are simple and not air-conditioned. Our driver drove very aggressively and only knew full throttle or hard braking. Luckily, we managed to get a seat, as those standing up fell forward during a hard stop. Fortunately, nothing happened.

According to our accommodation in Santa Marta, the most convenient way to get to Palomino by taxi is for around 50,000 COP directly to the accommodation. We took a motorcycle taxi from the gas station in Palomino to the 3.1 km distant Hukumeizi Hotel and paid 4,000 COP for that. These prices are also increasing continuously.

Before your trip to Palomino, clarify whether you can pay with a credit card at your accommodation. As of January 2017, there are no ATMs in Palomino and the electricity goes out from time to time (sometimes for extended periods).

Found on other blogs:

Have you been to Palomino or are you planning a trip there? Do you maybe have a good tip? I always appreciate your comments!

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