Tajikistan Travel Tips & Information

If you mention a trip to Tajikistan, the person you're speaking to might respond, 'Tajikistan? Where is that?' I experienced this myself during my journey on the Pamir Highway from Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, over the 'Roof of the World' to Osh in Kyrgyzstan.

Planning the trip was difficult. I found too little information online or in travel guides. Different spellings of locations (sometimes there are up to five different spellings) complicated my research.

Planning the trip was difficult. I found too little information online or in travel guides. Different spellings of locations (sometimes there are up to five different spellings) complicated my research.

Good reason to pack my backpack and set off to report on this unknown country for all of us.

Helpful information on budget, costs, transportation, accommodations, etc., that will allow you to enjoy an individual trip through Mexico without worries.

I am sharing my travel tips and experiences here to help you plan your trip to Tajikistan. I've summarized my recommendations for preparing your journey on the Pamir Highway here.

Tajikistan has the highest mountains, the longest glacier (Fedchenko Glacier), and the largest water resources in Central Asia. All Tajiks will proudly tell you that their country is the land of mountains: 93% of the country is mountainous. Additionally, over half of the country's area is above 3,000 meters in elevation.

The country is especially popular with cyclists and individual tourists who travel with their own vehicles from Europe through Tajikistan, the -stan countries, and onwards to China.

The country possesses a wealth and diversity of various cultural and religious influences. You will encounter many different languages (over 10 Pamir languages are spoken especially in the Pamir region), ways of life, customs, and cuisines in the southernmost country of Central Asia.

Attractions? Mostly nonexistent, only the nature is breathtaking!

Then there are the people of Tajikistan. They are extremely hospitable - especially open and friendly towards Germans, curious, and helpful.

Traveling in Tajikistan is challenging, and you need to have time in your luggage. Even if a problem arises (like the one we faced on the first day), you should not dwell on it. A Tajik will always find a solution.

Bring time with you - as seen in this video, where on the Pamir Highway, Chinese trucks that were far too heavy for the dusty road could not proceed (there were about 6 others waiting behind them). These workers are actually meant to asphalt the nonexistent road.

In doing so, they first ruin the "highway" and drive into ruts over 20cm deep (in many places the road is still one-lane, you can imagine the fun of overtaking... pure adventure!)

Thanks to 4x4, we could eventually get to the other side and drive off-road. (When I grow up, I dream of having a Toyota Land Cruiser!)

https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/KcXXQ7Xb1Fw?rel=0

Tajikistan is a former Soviet republic and is located in Central Asia. It borders China, Afghanistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan.

On the drive from Dushanbe via the Pamir Highway through the Wakhan Corridor to the Kyrgyz border and further to Osh, you will marvel at massive mountain ranges such as the Hindu Kush, the Pamir Mountains, and the Alai mountain landscape.

Barren plateaus that resemble surreal lunar landscapes made of rubble, roaring rivers like the Panj, rushing crystal-blue mountain streams, hot springs, and unexpectedly lively green cities will surely leave you in awe. I certainly couldn't stop admiring the wonderful landscape. This is Tajikistan!

Dushanbe - Kulob - Kalai Khumb - Khorog - Ishkashim - Yamg - Langar - Alichur - Murghab - Karakul - Sary Tash (Kyrgyzstan) - Sary Mogul (Kyrgyzstan) - Pik Lenin Basecamp (Kyrgyzstan) - Gulcha (Kyrgyzstan) - Osh (Kyrgyzstan)

The name Pamir Highway is actually misleading: It is not a highway as we might know it from America, but is in poor condition. It comprises gravel and dirt roads, sometimes even asphalted roads. The latter are, however, riddled with potholes. Only the drive from Dushanbe to Kulob was quite pleasant. The rest is bumpy, and quick progress is not possible. For 200 km, you can easily take 4 to 6 hours.

In winter (approximately October to March), three of the four main connecting roads from Dushanbe to the southwest of the country are closed due to heavy snowfall (roads over Khalaikum to Khorog, to the Kyrgyz city of Osh through the Garm Valley, and to Khujand over the Anzob Pass). The Pamir Highway between Khorog and Osh, on the other hand, is passable all year round.

Signage is very sparse, if it exists at all. Distances are rarely indicated, and places are only written in Cyrillic letters. In Langar, for example, there is no sign indicating where to turn left to go to the pass.

Attractions are also rarely marked. Much is currently being done, especially around Khorog, where you will increasingly find signs in English. Always visit tourist information to get the latest and detailed information about special features, road conditions, or events.

Tip: Learn the Cyrillic alphabet before traveling - it's not that difficult. I had forgotten it all before the trip and took a photo of the relevant page in my guidebook as a cheat sheet.

As mentioned at the beginning, the most important thing: Bring time with you. Plan at least 1-2 buffer days. Roads can also be closed in summer due to snowmelt and heavy rainfalls. Landslides and mudslides happen frequently.

During my visit, roads were closed multiple times: The winter of 2014/15 brought a lot of snow, and the summer of 2015 brought extreme high temperatures. Therefore, shortly before my trip, a mudslide occurred on the Pamir Highway between Khorog and Murghab.

This tragically buried a village - fortunately, no one was injured. The road remained closed. The only way through the mountains was then the longer (but prettier) route through the Wakhan Corridor, which was already planned for us anyway.

On the day of our arrival in Dushanbe, it was unclear whether we could continue our journey that evening: The (only) road between Khalaikum and Khorog was also closed due to a landslide. Thanks to some phone calls, we learned that the road would reopen a few hours later and there would be no obstacles to our departure.

Shortly after our arrival in Khorog, the road between Khalaikum and Khorog was closed again due to a landslide. We were extremely lucky.

Additionally, you should be prepared to take at least one rest day in the mountains to acclimatize and not tackle too much elevation at once. Severe headaches, dizziness, and nausea can result from too much elevation gain in a short time.

... does not exist. At least not without renting a driver. A reliable provider for us was Mountain Adventure Travel Tajikistan (we traveled with MATT in Tajikistan, the driver was great. When we were unable to reach Khalaikum on the first day, the owner was spontaneous and flexible and organized an alternative including an overnight stay in a homestay in Kulob).

In Tajikistan, you pay depending on the category of the car (I recommend a 4x4), per kilometer, and you must pay for the driver's food and accommodations. For this reason, many travelers organize themselves into groups and post info sheets in local tourist information.

For a stay of up to 30 days, you need a visa that you can obtain in advance at the Tajik Embassy in Berlin or upon arrival at Dushanbe airport. If you want to travel through the mountainous Badakhshan region like we did, you will need to apply for the GBAO Permit for transit. This must be applied for along with the visa at the embassy before your trip.

What you need to consider is written here:How to get a visa for Tajikistan and GBAO Permit (Badakhshan)

The Tajik currency is the Somoni (100 Somoni corresponds to 100 Dirams, although I never received Dirams). Prices are often indicated in dollars, but payment is made in Somoni.

Withdrawing money is possible only in larger cities like Dushanbe and Khorog. If there is a power outage, you cannot withdraw money at ATMs there either. You can withdraw a maximum of 800 Somoni or 200 dollars.

The most common illnesses travelers might encounter in Tajikistan are diarrhea and altitude sickness. Especially on the Pamir Highway, when climbing above 4,000 m. In the south, there have been malaria cases in the past. I brought my prophylaxis from my South Africa trip but didn't need it.

Even if one thinks that mosquitoes don't exist at elevations over 2,000 meters, you'll be mistaken: In the area around the Afghan border and at Karakol Lake, you will encounter these creatures.

Anti-Mosquito Spray or 'Autan Tropical' as well as medications for nausea (the roads are very bumpy, the curves over the passes are less extreme than we had expected), diarrhea, electrolytes, and aspirin for blood thinning during headaches and dizziness at high altitudes are advisable in addition to the usual travel pharmacy items you should pack.

I handled the altitude very well; other fellow travelers were glad to be able to use my aspirin for headaches and mild dizziness at 4,000 meters high.

The water from the tap is not suitable for drinking. In the few travel guides that exist about Tajikistan, it is also advised not to use this water for brushing teeth. I always brushed my teeth with it and did not get sick. The clear water from mountain springs and hot springs is also very drinkable. Definitely try it!

If you are traveling via the Wakhan Corridor from Khorog to Osh, you should definitely buy some essentials you'll need on the way. Best to do this in Dushanbe (or Osh, depending on your starting point) - the earlier, the better and cheaper. Because once roads are buried and closed, supply shortages occur.

We stocked up on toilet paper, cookies and chocolate bars, coffee powder, and fruit (the melon turned to mush due to the bumpy roads). A small snack in between is never wrong. Also, make sure to drink plenty of fluids in the form of water or tea. Especially as you go into higher regions, you must drink a lot.

Turkish Airlines flies to Dushanbe via Istanbul. With Somoni Airlines, you can travel directly from Frankfurt once a week.

Here are tips to find cheap flights

During my trip, I had a SIM card from TCell - the network that, according to locals, has the best coverage. We had no problems from Dushanbe to Khalaikum, only occasionally did the signal drop. Until Khorog, we experienced sporadic dead spots, but everything worked in Khorog.

From Friday night, there were massive problems, and by Saturday, there was no more internet. Up to Murghab, I had sporadic brief internet access, which was never enough to send and receive WhatsApp messages.

I was essentially offline from Friday on, as there was no reception after the pass. Only briefly, after Murghab, the reception was completely gone. Our driver with a SIM card from Babylon always had phone reception here. It was all attributed to the bad weather. Others said they had continuous reception with Tcell all the way to Kyrgyzstan.

In Tajikistan, Tajik is spoken, as well as over ten different Pamir languages in the Pamir region, Russian, and good English in Khorog. In Eastern Pamir around Murghab, Kyrgyz is often spoken.

Conversations with locals are challenging yet cheerful when one, like me, speaks neither Russian nor Tajik, and the interlocutor speaks neither German nor English.

Guides sometimes speak very good English. If you can speak a few words of Russian, you'll definitely fare better. As all Tajiks were very hospitable, curious, and open towards us, communication through gestures and signs worked out very well.

In cities like Dushanbe, Khorog, and Murghab, there are hotels. In rural areas, predominantly there are private accommodations called homestays. These accommodations are very simple and often have an outdoor toilet, a small wash basin outside, and a shower that must be heated on request or consists of a bucket with a ladle.

Overall, the accommodations around Khorog are quite good and sometimes have proper toilets and showers. Even if the water pressure is very low by our standards.

Traditionally, you sleep on mats and receive thin blankets or in higher elevations, heavy thick blankets that keep you warm at night. If you plan to sleep in a yurt above 2,000 meters, you should pack warm clothes and possibly bring a sleeping bag depending on how cold it is.

If you are traveling by bike or car with a tent, don't worry. Camping is allowed everywhere.

Photographing soldiers and military facilities is strictly prohibited, as is the case in many countries. In Khorog, we were also forbidden from photographing the botanical garden from the front - the summer residence of the Tajik president borders the area directly.

Some people are very enthusiastic about being photographed, especially children. Show them the captured image, they will appreciate it. I advise you to always ask beforehand. Many will turn away if they see a camera or express with a gesture that they do not want to be photographed.

Gas prices are 6.50 Somoni in Murghab and 5 Somoni in Dushanbe (about 70 cents). According to our guide, the prices are currently quite expensive for Tajiks.

The further away you get from Dushanbe, the more expensive the gas becomes. Food prices also vary by region. Dushanbe is inexpensive, depending on the situation on the roads and the availability of supplies in remote areas, food becomes more expensive. (Example: a watermelon and 1 kg of apples in Khorog costs 20 Somoni, while in Dushanbe, 3 honey jars from the market for 20 Somoni and accommodations cost between 100 - 125 Somoni).

The best travel time for the mountain regions is high summer (June to mid-September). The Pamir is best visited in July to early September. For the cities, the north, and the south of Tajikistan, spring (from the end of March) is recommended; it is very hot in summer.

I never felt unsafe or threatened. All Tajiks were very curious and approached us in the street, wanting to know where we were from. Often, communication took place through sign language. Unfortunately, I cannot speak Russian, which would have been very helpful.

Cross-border markets occur every Saturday in the no man's land between Afghanistan, Khorog, and Ishkashim.

It is definitely advisable to inform yourself on the website of the German Foreign Office before traveling. However, I had the impression that the page has not been updated for a long time. Tajiks fear an incursion by ISIS from this region of Afghanistan.

Rohi safed - Safe travels

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