Tips for Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in South Africa

The Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park is located in the KwaZulu-Natal Province in eastern South Africa, about 280 kilometers north of Durban. The park is known as the oldest wildlife reserve in Africa and spans a picturesque hilly landscape with an impressive array of wildlife, including the 'Big Five'.

Hluhluwe National Park (pronounced: Sluh-loo-wee) proudly claims to have revived the rhinoceros population in South Africa. Rightfully so. We have encountered so many rhinos here (especially on our walking tour).

This wildlife reserve covers 96,000 hectares and is actually made up of two reserves: Hluhluwe and iMfolozi. The Corridor Game Reserve, established in 1989, connects the two older parks.

We traveled from St. Lucia for about 1 hour on our first visit. I recommend this as well, as Johannesburg or Kruger are too far away (at least 7 hours drive).

The park has three entrances: Memorial Gate, Nyalazi Gate, and Cengeni Gate.

Since we came from St. Lucia, we used the Nyalazi Gate. Here you can access both the iMfolozi and Hluhluwe sides of the reserve.

After our visit to Hluhluwe-iMfolozi National Park, we continued on to Durban.

After Kruger National Park, this park has the second largest population of white rhinos in the world. It also has a large population of black rhinos and a growing number of elephants and other African wildlife.

What excites me, and a major advantage of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, is that you can not only see the Big Five but also that white rhinos and black rhinos are successfully protected here and their population has even increased.

In addition to the endangered rhinos, there is also a successful breeding program for wild dogs here (the second most endangered large predator in Africa). The population in South Africa is estimated to be only 450.

Besides these, you will find elephants, buffalo, lions, leopards, wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, warthogs, baboons, cheetahs, hyenas, and various antelope species. You'll hear the big cats and hyenas at night more often than seeing them.

As the rhinoceros population in Kruger National Park has been drastically reduced by poaching in recent years (the park allegedly lost 70%), these poachers have now turned their attention to KwaZulu-Natal and Hluhluwe. In just 2022, poachers killed 244 rhinos in the province, the majority of them in Hluhluwe.

Even though the park is much smaller than Kruger, it is hard to protect. Because many places around have road access, it's easy for poachers to enter the park and disappear unnoticed with the horn. A dilemma I have been dealing with for a long time.

The Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park has 3 gates, 2 on the iMfolozi (Umfolozi) side in the east/west and 1 on the Hluhluwe side in the east of the park.

Opening times of the gates:

Entry times (March to September): 6 AM to 6 PM

Entry times (October to February): 5 AM to 7 PM

No driving is allowed outside these hours. No night driving.

At all gates, you can buy maps - a good idea if you want to go on a self-drive safari in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. The park is 96,000 hectares in size and has numerous loops and viewpoints. The maps you can purchase at the different gates show all the roads, accommodations in the park, the animals you might encounter, and much more.

Alternatively, you can download the Tracks4Africa app on your phone and purchase the South Africa maps. It includes all the loops and viewpoints as well. I own this app and all the maps from my Africa travels.

Since the park is located in KwaZulu-Natal, Hluhluwe is not part of the SAN Parks (South African National Parks), as the province has its own authority: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Therefore, you must check accommodations and entrance fees on this website. Since prices are constantly adjusted and changed, please check them on the website.

With the Wild Card for South Africa, you as a foreign tourist still get free entry to all Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Parks.

What do you need to do to gain access to KZN Wildlife's partner park?

Bring your printed Wild Card confirmation letter and an identity document (passport) so your membership can be validated for access.

The Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (formerly known as Hluhluwe Umfolozi Game Reserve) is the oldest wildlife reserve in South Africa and ideal for self-drivers. Even though you find fantastic private game reserves like Phinda and Thanda, Amakhosi and Mkuzi Falls Lodges close by, Hluhluwe offers a less expensive option.

If you prefer to drive yourself, Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park is excellently suited. There are some self-drive roads where you can drive.

Moreover, there are several accommodations available to you. The Hilltop Camp is the only facility in the park that has a restaurant while also providing self-catering options. That's where we stayed (more on that below).

Although the roads are somewhat riddled with deep potholes, it is much quieter here than in the Kruger National Park. That's why I really enjoy it here.

We entered the park through the Nyalazi Gate. As we had to go to Hilltop Camp, we first stayed in the northern part and drove several loops. There are waterholes where you can see crocodiles and hippos. At Hilltop Camp, we enjoyed the view over the game reserve. If you're not staying overnight, you should enjoy the view from the restaurant's terrace.

According to locals, the most beautiful areas are in the south towards Mpila and further along the Sontuli Loop.

Our highlight in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in South Africa was the walking tour we booked through the camp's website. Early in the morning, we set out on foot, and this tour was quite intense. Typically, bush walks take place during the hot midday when most animals are lounging in the shade. Not here.

The walking tours last about 2 hours and take place either early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

You can book them at the reception in Hilltop Camp and Mpila Camp.

The guide is an experienced ranger.

We did encounter several rhinos on foot. A little thrill, especially when a rhino mom with baby approaches you, and the father is right on the other side of you. Standing between a rhino and its family when there is no tree in sight (guides always say: "If I say you should climb a tree, then do it").

But our experienced guide always knew which way the wind was coming from or what sounds to make to get the rhinos to turn back. It worked numerous times this time as well. This walking tour was truly an incredible experience.

Day and night drives in an open vehicle provide you with a great opportunity for wildlife observation. An experienced ranger is there to help with questions. He shares a lot about the animals' behavior, knows the places where they are most often found, and since you sit higher in the open safari jeep, you have a better view.

In Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park, the largest Big 5 wildlife reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, there are two large camps (Hilltop and Mpila Camps) and a number of smaller accommodations. The Hilltop Camp is the only one in Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park that has a restaurant.

The camp is located in the northern Hluhluwe sector of the park. All other camps are self-catering only. Hilltop Camp offers both self-catering and non-self-catering chalets.

When booking at Hilltop Camp, you have the option for half-board (breakfast and dinner) or just breakfast. You can also book optional game drives in open vehicles, but you can also drive on the public network yourself. With rangers, you often get to places that self-drivers are not allowed to use.

From the terrace of the main building, you have a great panoramic view over the park. You can book accommodations through the official website.

Bringing your own wood is prohibited. Buy wood at the camp supermarket.

Here, I recommend visiting the terrace in the camp, ordering coffee or tea, and watching animals on the opposite slope (best with binoculars and/or a telephoto lens). We spent several hours here on the first rain-free day observing elephants, wild dogs, and baboons.

We also spoke with locals who enjoy spending weekends in Hluhluwe National Park.

Our booked hut for 2 nights in Hilltop Camp was very simple but cozy. We self-catered, prepared a braai, and fortunately bought most of the things needed beforehand at the supermarket. On the second evening, we dined at the restaurant. Be sure to make a reservation in advance, as it is almost always fully booked. The food was okay, but don't expect gourmet cuisine.

Tip: Shop at the supermarket before arriving. There is a small supermarket in the park, but it offers hardly any fresh fruit and vegetables. You can find canned spaghetti and frozen meat in the freezer.

Camps in the Hluhluwe section of Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park

Mtwazi Lodge- 8 beds for private use

Camps in the uMfolozi section of Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park

Mpila Camp- 100 beds

Nselweni Bush Camp- 20 beds

Masinda Lodge- 8 beds for private use

Gqoyeni Bush Lodge- 8 beds for private use

Hlatikulu Bush Lodge- 8 beds for private use

Hluhluwe is located in a malaria area with a low risk, consult a doctor for malaria prophylaxis.

The nearest town is Hluhluwe, which is 44 km away.

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